Backyard archery ranges make practicing convenient, but be sure your setup is safe before shooting your first arrow. Let’s review what to include when planning a backyard range.

Local Laws

Start by checking your town or county’s website for archery-related ordinances. You can also call the police department’s information line or visit an archery shop to learn if backyard practice is legal.

It’s also a good idea to tell neighbors you plan to practice archery in your yard. Explaining your setup can calm concerns and prevent conflicts.

Backstops

Carefully plan where you’ll place your target. Don’t shoot toward roads, houses or areas where people pass by or hang out. In addition, build a physical backstop to catch stray shots. The backstop should be larger than the target and capable of stopping arrows. This could be an old carpet hung behind your target to catch shots. If possible, also leave about 25 yards of safe area behind the target and backstop.

Range Layout and Targets

As with bows and arrows, several varieties of targets will suit your needs, budget and archery type. Three basic types are 3D targets, small portables, and large target bales. Every target has pros and cons.

You can store small portable targets indoors and carry them outside when practicing. Place these targets on the ground so you’ll shoot at downward angles, which ensures misses won’t travel far.

Large target bales are expensive, but last longer than smaller targets because you can spread out where you shoot the bale. It’s also more difficult to miss large bales, which makes them ideal for backyard use and long-distance shooting.

Also consider 3D targets, which are fun to shoot and great practice for bowhunting and 3D competitions. Their downside is that they’re usually smaller and easier to miss.

As with other archery gear, buy targets and shooting bales from experts at an archery shop. They’ll help you choose the best target for you.

Safety Rules

Backyard ranges require safety rules at all times. If others are shooting with you, tell everyone when the range is clear and when they can resume shooting. Make sure everyone knows to stay behind the shooting line when anyone is practicing. Also, keep your pets leashed or indoors.

Having a convenient place to practice means you’ll shoot more, improve quickly, and have more fun. To get started on your backyard range, visit an archery shop for advice and a target. You can find a nearby shop here.

The post Is it Safe to Shoot in My Yard? appeared first on Archery 360.

Accurate archery requires consistency in every part of your shot, whether it’s your grip, your anchor, or how far you pull the bowstring back. That’s especially true when shooting recurve bows.

Even a fraction of an inch difference in a recurve’s draw length changes the arrow’s impact point. That’s why many Olympians use a clicker.

Clicker Options

As the name implies this bow accessory makes an audible click, which has a dual purpose. It helps archers keep their draw length consistent, and it helps them mentally execute a consistent release by triggering their shot.

Manufacturers make myriad types of clickers, but the most common mounts on a bow’s riser and includes an arm that extends toward the arrow shelf. The arrow sits under the clicker arm. When the arrow tip pulls past it, the arm hits the riser to make the click.

Another clicker mounts to the bowsight. It works just like the riser-mounted clicker, but provides more adjustment range for different arrow lengths. If you shoot a longer arrow, or you’re young and still growing, a bowsight-mounted clicker is an excellent option.

A third type of clicker is limb-mounted, and it’s most commonly used by traditional archers. These clickers mount to the limb with double-sided tape, and connect to the bowstring with a cord. As the cord pulls tight, a tab on the clicker flexes and clicks.

Clicker Set Up

Adjusting your clicker is much like adjusting your sight. The initial setting gets you close, and then you fine-tune it. With help from a friend or coach, pull your bow to full draw and note the arrow point’s distance to the clicker. Let down and move the clicker until it’s close to the arrow point’s position at full draw.

Now put your arrow under the clicker and come to full draw again. When you reach your anchor point, you should have about a ¼-inch remaining in the draw to make the clicker go off. Your goal is for the clicker go off at the same time on each shot with a slight movement of your back muscles.

Clickers are a fantastic tool, but if you can’t reach your draw length consistently you’ll endure lots of frustration. Consistent draw lengths require precision in your alignment, bow arm and anchor point. A coach can help you with those aspects of form, and help you decide when you’re ready to use a clicker. To find a coach, click here.

The post A Beginner’s Guide to Recurve Clickers appeared first on Archery 360.

My dad had bought me the rifle for my 15th birthday and gave me a couple boxes of 170-grain Remington Core-Lokt cartridges, along with a couple of boxes of Winchester Silvertip 170-grain cartridges. “Keep those Silvertips for when we go bear hunting up in the Catskills,” he told me. “They penetrate better than normal bullets.”

He was correct in his evaluation of the ammo of that time. The Winchester Silvertips were considered a premium bullet, with an aluminum-alloy tip that helped control expansion, which resulted in deeper penetration. Now, that’s not to say that the Silvertip was a poor choice for the deer hunter, but it might have been a bit more than what was needed. 

That was 30-something years ago. Today there is a mind-boggling number of cartridges and bullets to choose from when it comes to deer hunting. So, let’s talk about what makes a good deer bullet, examining a number of different hunting scenarios, so you can best choose the bullet which will suit your hunting needs. 

The whitetail deer, along with the feral hog, is hunted with a wide and diverse selection of cartridges, bullets and bullet weights. I know hunters who don’t have an opportunity to take a shot longer than 80 or 90 yards, yet insist on using a .300 Weatherby Magnum, and I know guys who will take 250-yard shots across open fields with cartridges as small as the .22-250 Remington. I feel the answer to the “best bullet” question might be somewhere in the middle of those two extremes. 

A deer isn’t hard to kill, providing you destroy his vital organs. A heavy bullet that doesn’t hit the vitals is useless, and an animal thus struck is going to travel a considerable distance before going down, if it goes down at all. While a lighter bullet that destroys vital tissue can work just fine, then, if the bullet is too light or constructed poorly, it may fail to do sufficient damage. Premature expansion can result in poor penetration, and too little expansion—while giving fantastic penetration—doesn’t do enough damage to the vitals to result in a quick death. Understanding this, then, what you’re after is that balance of expansion and penetration. 

Classic softpoint bullets like the Remington Core-Lokt, Winchester Power Point, Speer Hot-Cor and others, when of suitable weight—say, the middle of the range to the heavier end of the spectrum for a particular and appropriate caliber—work just fine at standard velocities. Beef those velocities to that of the magnum cartridges, however, and you’ll begin to see premature expansion and a whole lot of bloodshot meat. 

These projectiles are of standard cup-and-core construction, a copper jacket around a lead core. John Nosler had an issue with this construction when hunting bull moose with a .300 H&H Magnum in the late 1940s, and that experience was the impetus for the famous Nosler Partition, which uses two lead cores separated by a partition of copper jacket material. That design gave birth to the premium bullet industry. The Partition remains a staple in the industry, as the front core is soft enough to give good expansion, yet the bullet holds together well enough to penetrate a deer from any angle. I like to use them in bear country, when the odds of seeing a bear or deer are equal. 

Another option for controlling expansion is to use a thicker copper jacket. This results in better resistance to bullet breakup. Sierra Bullets have long been popular among handloaders for their accuracy and their construction. Sierra offers many designs, including cup-and-core bullets with thicker jackets, which give great performance on any deer. Federal began to load Sierra’s bullets in its Premium line in the 1970s and continues to do so to this day. One of my all-time favorite deer bullets is Sierra’s 165-grain .30-caliber hollowpoint boattail. It’s seriously accurate, opens quickly to transfer energy and has a thick jacket so that premature breakup isn’t an issue. 

There are a good many polymer-tipped bullets on the market today. That design was pioneered by Nosler in its Ballistic Tip bullet, and it makes a sound choice for deer hunting. That tip acts as a wedge to initiate expansion upon impact; Hornady’s SST and ELD X and the Browning’s BXR have a similar design. But, as with a standard cup-and-core bullet, too much velocity upon impact causes these bullets to expand too quickly, resulting in poor penetration. A modern solution for today’s faster cartridges has been to chemically bond the copper jacket to the lead core, resulting in controlled expansion. I like these polymer-tipped bonded bullets in magnum cartridges, where impact velocities can be high, and in lighter cartridges where reaching the vital organs can be a concern. I also prefer them in standard cartridges in those instances where a light-for-caliber is chosen. My 7mm-08 Remington likes the 140-grain Nosler AccuBond load from Federal, and it works wonderfully on deer of any size. 

While it doesn’t use a polymer tip, Federal’s Fusion has a bonded core and is another great choice for deer of any species. They are both accurate and affordable, and I have really come to enjoy the entire Fusion line. It doesn’t have a ballistic coefficient value that’s off the charts, thanks to its flat base and a bit of a blunt nose, but at average hunting distances it’s a great choice. 

A final consideration are the monometal bullets comprised of copper or a copper alloy. The beauty of their design is that there is no core or jacket to separate, and they usually have a hollowpoint or a polymer tip to ensure the bullet expands upon impact. Barnes Bullets pioneered the design, but these days many companies offer a monometal bullet, including Hornady’s GMX, Federal’s Trophy Copper and Nosler’s E-Tip.

Like I said, there are many choices available for today’s deer hunter, whether he’s hunting these wonderful animals in the thick cover of the Northeast’s hardwood forests or the wide-open expanses of Midwest agriculture. What you ultimately want with the cartridge you choose for your hunting situation is a bullet that provides rapid energy transfer. Be sure your bullet has either enough weight or a construction strong enough to reliably reach the vital organs from any angle, and you’ll be a happy hunter. 

About the Author: Phil Massaro is a freelance author and editor-in-chief of Gun Digest Annual. He is happiest hunting the wildest places left on earth.

The advantages of camping by canoe are many, but chief among them is ease of travel. You are not carrying your gear on your back. Instead, it is gliding along in your canoe! This is relatively easy if you are heading down a river, or even paddling across a lake, especially compared to backpacking your load uphill.

Carrying such conveniences as an ice chest, a large tent, a table and chairs or a two-burner stove is easy with a canoe. You are only limited by how much weight your canoe will safely transport. Extravagant lodging, meals, and even oyster roasts are possible on a canoe journey! 

Canoeing is also a quiet way to travel, and you are likely to experience an abundance of wildlife such as eagles, otters, ducks, muskrats, deer, and other fauna, depending on your locale. Remote areas become within reach, giving you and your family a level of solitude not afforded by many public areas. 

Some canoes are better suited to canoe camping than others. While some are mainly built for day trips on whitewater, others are wide in the middle, flatter on the bottom and capable of carrying great loads. However, many types of canoes and kayaks can be utilized for weekend canoe camping. Check the weight capacity and evaluate your particular craft for safety and stability, especially when loaded with gear. 

Safety is key, especially when traveling on the water with family or friends. Always heed laws pertaining to safe boating. Have enough paddles, lifejackets, a noisemaker such as a whistle, or any other gear necessary for the safety of your passengers. 

A boater safety course will pay great dividends. Take the lessons you learn there to heart—they could save your life or those of your loved ones. When doing any kind of camping, it is always important to have a plan. Planning greatly reduces the chance of unexpected emergencies. Be sure to identify campsites and if they aren’t public, seek prior approval of landowners on whose property you are camping. The last thing anyone wants is to be chased off, or worse, arrested for trespassing. Let friends and family know exactly where you will be going and when you plan to return.

Learn how your canoe will respond under a load by practicing close to home. When loading your canoe, keep the load low and in the center of your canoe. Gear must be lashed in so that it doesn’t shift. Insure that if the canoe turns over, the gear will stay with the boat. Run lashing ropes through the handles of bags and other containers and tie them off so that they won’t become separated from the canoe in the event of tipping over. 

Your campsite should be chosen carefully. Be aware of the possibility of flash floods, and of fluctuating water levels when camping on lakes and rivers. Seek high ground for your campsite and avoid the possibility of your camp being flooded. 

When traveling on the water, you’ll need a way to keep gear like sleeping bags, stoves, and extra clothes clean and dry. If packs are to be used, they can be lined with waterproof liners and tied shut. Don’t use garbage bags. If submerged, they will allow water to soak your gear. Instead, use dry bags or other waterproof containers made specifically for use in boats. You may also want to cover your dunnage with a tarp.

Aside from a way to keep everything dry, gear for canoe camping can be the same as other camping gear. As alluded to earlier, because the canoe is doing the work, you can haul heavier loads including things like coolers, kitchen equipment, cots, and other items that would be considered impractical luxuries when backpacking. If your expedition includes more than one canoe, the sky’s the limit!

Canoe camping is the perfect family activity! Fall days on a lake or river could include time spent fishing, hunting, observing wildlife or just paddling and enjoying the scenery. Imagine ending your day enjoying a steak dinner complete with dessert and ice cold drinks! Enjoy your time on the water in style!

An often-overlooked part of recurves is their limbs. Even though they’re durable and can take a beating, limbs must be stored properly to prevent problems. Never leave them inside a hot vehicle for long. Prolonged heat affects epoxies that hold limb layers together, which can cause twisting and even delamination.

In addition, never store a recurve by standing it on one limb. The riser’s weight and add-on accessories can deform the limb, especially if it’s stored like that for a long time. And even though modern recurve limbs can handle it, don’t leave your bow strung for long periods. Manufacturers such as Hoyt note that Korean archers unstring their bows when leaving a range for lunch.

Bowstrings can wear out quickly if you practice often and take lots of shots. Strings last longer if you apply a good wax every other week, which keeps out moisture while preventing string fibers from splitting. If you see strands fraying and breaking, buy a new string.

Speaking of moisture, shooting in the rain is fine and sometimes unavoidable. Just clean and dry your equipment when returning home or to your hotel. Disassemble your bow and its sight, plunger and stabilizers, and dry every piece with a towel, paper towel, or hair dryer. Moisture causes oxidation and possibly rust on some parts. Disassembling, drying, cleaning and reassembling your equipment reduces problems and on-the-go troubleshooting.

Bow maintenance is just one task you should learn. Likewise, arrow maintenance requires daily attention. If you miss the target, inspect that arrow before shooting it again, especially if it’s made of carbon, which weakens when hitting hard objects.

If it’s made of aluminum, check to ensure it didn’t bend. To check an arrow’s straightness, spin it with its point on your palm and the nock pointed up. If it spins without wobbling, it’s straight. Also check the shaft for dents or cracks, which can compromise the shaft’s integrity. You can check a carbon arrow for cracks by bending it with both hands and spinning it while bent. If you hear a crackling noise, the arrow is damaged and should be retired.

Shooting tight groups can also damage arrows. After shooting a tight group, check each arrow shaft for dents or cracks; and look for cracked nocks and damaged fletching. Dents and cracks weaken shaft integrity and make those arrows unsafe to shoot. Cracked nocks can explode if shot, which can cause a destructive dry-fire or injure the archer. Damaged fletching is less critical, but look for a tear in the fletch’s leading edge. Such tears cause arrows to fly erratically.

Conduct those three inspections every time you pull arrows from targets, especially when shooting with others.

Knowing your equipment is just one step to becoming a more skilled, knowledgeable archer. Most archers on the World Cup and World Championship circuits know their equipment thoroughly. That knowledge is a vital building block in their confidence as world-class archers.

The post Take Care of Recurve Equipment appeared first on Archery 360.

Before you even start packing your backpack, the very first thing you’ll want to do is organize the gear that you’ll be taking with you on the trip.

Start by laying it all out on the floor to get a sense of everything you plan to bring along. This gives you the opportunity to take a quick inventory of your equipment and identify the things that might be missing from the collection, not to mention the items that aren’t necessary for that particular outing. It is also a good way to assess whether or not your backpack has the capacity to haul everything you want to take with you.

Once you’ve collected all of the gear that you’ll be using on your trip, the next step is to start putting all of it inside your pack.

Naturally that means starting at the bottom, where you’ll place the items that you’ll least likely need to access throughout the day or when you first arrive at camp that night. Those items generally include the following:

• Sleeping bag
• Extra camp shoes
• Any layers of clothing that you aren’t likely to need on the trail that day. 

To get started:

A. First place your sleeping bag at the very bottom of the pack. This helps give the bag some shape and provides a soft cushion where the pack rests against your lower back.

B. If you’re bringing an extra pair of shoes, place them on top of the sleeping bag.

C. Then stuff your additional layers of clothing on or around the shoes to help hold everything securely in place.

The middle section of your backpack is where you want to store heavier items that you won’t necessarily need while hiking.

This creates a good center of gravity, helping you to maintain your sense of balance on the trail, even while scrambling over rocks or up and down rough terrain. If bulky items are too close to the bottom they can cause the backpack to hang lower than it should, potentially causing discomfort. If those items are placed near the top, they can alter the center of gravity, creating instability. They would also just be in the way when trying to access items that need to be more readily available.

The gear that you’ll want to stash in the core section of your pack includes your:

• Tent
• Camp stove
• Cooking pots
• Any food that you won’t need throughout the day.
• It is also a good place to store extra clothing, fuel canisters, and a bear canister (for storing food) if one is required where you’ll be camping.

Finally, you’ll top off your backpack with the items that you’re most likely need to access during the day, as well as the things you’ll want close at hand should an emergency arise.

For example, if it starts to rain, you’ll want to be able to grab your rain gear as quickly as possible, so having a waterproof jacket in an easily accessible place is a good idea. The top of the pack is also a good place to stash your lunch, too, as you’re likely to stop somewhere along the way for a quick meal.

Other items that should be packed close to the top include:

• An insulated jacket
• First aid kit
• Any toilet supplies 

The top of your pack is also the perfect location for your headlamp, extra snacks, and a water filter, as those are important items you may need to grab while en route from one campsite to the next.

With the inside of your pack quickly filling up, you’ll find extra storage space outside of the bag to be a handy place to store smaller items. For instance, most packs have gear straps at the bottom that are perfect for attaching a sleeping pad. Lashing points are good for holding trekking poles and ice axes, or attaching a GPS device or compass via a lanyard for easy access.

External pockets are designed for holding tent poles, a water bottle, or a pair of shoes. A lightweight solar panel can even be connected to the pack for charging small electronics while you’re on the go.

Most backpacks have hip belts equipped with small zippered pockets, too. These are handy for keeping energy bars, a camera, or a smartphone within easy reach.

Once you’ve securely loaded all of the gear in your pack and made sure your footwear is in order, you’ll be ready to hit the trail. By following these guidelines, the weight load should be well distributed, and all of your equipment should be organized, too. This will make hiking with a full pack much more enjoyable and keep things simple when arriving at your campsite at the end of the day.

So, come along on a virtual hike and enjoy fall foraging. Our adventure takes place in the Northwest, but you can apply all of the foraging rules you learn here to wherever you live. I promise that when you give foraging a try, the thrill of the hunt will entertain you, whether you end up with a hearty supply of berries, mushrooms, nuts, and fruit…or don’t have much luck.

Note: Many wild edibles have toxic and even deadly look-alikes and you could eat the wrong thing. It takes a good amount of research and actual field work to know your mycology and herbology before you can just start picking wild edibles and eating them. Always do your research before setting out.

Elderberries: Elderberry harvest season is fairly short, from mid-August to mid-September, depending upon your region (this is certainly the season near my home in Southern Oregon). These tiny berries grow in clusters that are a bear to pick, but they are well worth the effort!

Best used for: make an elderberry jam to spread on toast all winter long.

Blackberries: Depending on where you live in the Northwest, some blackberry harvests will be at the very end of August, but at higher elevations, the season can extend into fall. Look for thorny blackberry bushes near streams, or climbing up the sides of remote fences (be sure to ask permission before foraging on private property). Bring sturdy hiking boots and protective clothing, as scratches are a guarantee if your skin is exposed while picking.

Best used for: freezing to use in smoothies and in muffins.

Wild apples: Sometimes called crabapples, wild apples grow in abundance in Washington State, but you can find them in many other states as well. You never quite know what you’re going to get with wild apples, which can range from sweet to barely editable. The key is to get to them before the wild birds do.

Best used for: pie baking and apple cobbler making.

Juniper Berries: aren’t actually berries at all, but rather a type of pine cone found east of the Cascade range, for the most part. I’ve found them in Central Oregon, and I know that some Oregon distilleries use local juniper berries in their wares.

Best used for: tea and…you guessed it…gin! Make your own infused winter gin! Find juniper berries east of the Cascades range. I’ve found them in central Oregon.

Mountain Huckleberries: Found in the northern part of the Pacific Northwest, huckleberries are in abundance in mid-summer. In early fall, you’ll still see their close cousin, the Mountain Huckleberry, at higher elevation in Northern Idaho, Washington State, and British Columbia (among other locales). Look for them along hiking trails near the treeline.

Best used for: huckleberries make a great addition to a vanilla ice cream shake, or on top of pancakes. Fold huckleberries into just about any baked goods, actually.

Dulse – This red-hued seaweed is common throughout the Pacific Northwest shorelines and is among the tastiest. If you live near a coast, harvest Dulse by removing only parts of the clump, for conservation’s sake, and always wash three times or more in cold water before using. You can also harvest kelp (particularly forest kelp), throughout coastal Pacific Northwest.

Best used for: add to soups or atop salads.

Oyster mushrooms: In western Washington, oyster mushrooms are often found growing on dead or dying alders. On the east side of the Cascade Range, you will more often see oyster mushrooms on dead or dying cottonwood trees. The key to finding them: look on downed logs.

Best used for: sautée in garlic and butter, or make a risotto.

Golden chanterelle mushrooms: Chanterelles grow in conifer and oak forests (think lower elevations). You’ll need to look in an area with mossy growth under your boots. They’ll be growing through October, so they’re great to forage after the spring morel season is over. Look for mushrooms with a funnel shape, that have a solid stem. They’ll grow in groups and near trees. Note: Jack-o-Lantern mushrooms are toxic, and grow where there might not be trees.

Best used for: soups and stews.

The California King Bolete mushroom: this mushroom grows in the woods in California and Oregon. You won’t find them near trees, and they are distinct by their sponge-like tubed surface on the underside of their cap. These bad boys can get very large, and can be foraged in September, October and November.

Best used for: any recipe that calls for a ‘meaty’ mushroom; grill them like steaks!

Live outside the Northwest? I’ve picked early fall blueberries galore in Maine, and have heard tell of wild ramps in West Virginia, wild ginger in Tennessee, and maple for syrup-making in all parts of New England. No matter where you live, a great resource for foraging in any state is the Cooperative Extension. Local garden shops and master gardener programs are also great starting points. Let us know what kinds of things you forage for by adding your tips to the comments section below.

Remember, never, ever forage and eat anything without being 100-percent certain of its identity as a safe plant to consume.

Add your foraging resource suggestions to the comments section below.

If you shoot a low draw weight or short draw length, you might struggle at longer distances, especially at 70 meters. A common problem is arrows falling short even after you adjust your sight to its lowest setting. If you encounter that problem, we have some tricks to help you hit the mark.

Outdoor Arrows

Have you switched to outdoor arrows? Indoor arrows are typically heavier, with a fatter diameter and larger fletching than outdoor arrows. Those features make indoor arrows the king at 18 meters, but for farther distances you’ll want lighter arrows with smaller vanes. If you need help selecting outdoor arrows, consult an archery shop’s technicians. These experts will help you choose your arrows and components, and then tune your bow for the setup.

Increase Draw Weight

Higher draw weights boost arrow speeds and flatten trajectories. If you decide to raise yours, increase it incrementally as you build strength to avoid injury. One of the best exercises for increasing draw weight is “specific physical training,” or SPT, which was developed by KiSik Lee, USA Archery’s head coach. SPT exercises usually require a bow, but resistance bands or other training devices that mimic drawing a bow also work.

The exercise is simple. Draw your bow and hold it at full draw with good form for at least 15 seconds but no more than 30 seconds. Then rest and repeat the process for 30 minutes to an hour. An hour of this exercise equates to shooting 200 to 250 arrows.

To ensure safe SPT with a bow, stand in front of a target with an arrow loaded. If you accidentally fire, you won’t damage your bow. Resistance bands let you do SPT workouts at home while watching TV or enjoying some fresh air and sunshine.

Don’t forget that increasing draw weight affects your arrow tuning. You might need to adjust your equipment when reaching your goal weight.

Move Your Sight Bracket Down

Simple solutions are sometimes all you need. If you can’t lower your scope or sight pin, try lowering the entire sight bracket. The brackets on most target sights can be removed, lowered and reinstalled so archers can lower their sight pin.

Lowering the pin lets you shoot targets farther away, but it can cause clearance problems if you move it into the arrow’s path. To test for clearance, put your arrow on the rest with its fletching forward. Hold the arrow level, as if you could shoot it, to see if the fletching touches the sights or scope.

Bring Your Sight In

Most target sights have an adjustable extension piece to move the sight in and out. Move your sight in to make your arrows hit higher. If you bring the sight all the way in, and you still can’t reach your desired distance, try flipping the bracket around, which brings the sight even closer. Watch the video above to see this method demonstrated.

With these tips and a little help from an archery pro, you’ll enjoy shooting farther distances.

The post 4 Tips for Hitting Outdoor Distances appeared first on Archery 360.

In cooler weather, keeping your feet warm and protected is crucial. Fall hiking doesn’t require all the insulation and warmth that winter boots offer, but you need a little more than your Chaco sandals out on the trail. A good, comfortable hiking boot or shoe, like the Targhee from Keen, will do the trick quite nicely. If you live in an area that tends to get a lot of precipitation in the fall, consider getting a waterproof version of the boot you choose.  

In many places, late fall temperatures can vary radically, sometimes within a few hours. So, when you head out on the trail, a jacket is a necessity. However, you’ll want an outer layer that breathes well and will keep you comfortable across a wide range of temperatures. A hood is also a nice thing to have in the event of unplanned precipitation. Patagonia’s Nanopuff Hoody is a good example of a jacket that checks all these boxes.

Do you really have to have specialized hiking pants in order to head out on the trail in the fall? No, probably not, but pants designed with the hiker in mind can help keep you comfortable and warm when you’re out there. Hiking pants tend to be tear-resistant and have a little bit of stretch to help you get over rough patches. Well-placed pockets and fast-drying materials, like you’d find in the Kühl Renegade are also features to look for in hiking pants. 

Another key clothing item for fall hiking is a pair of warm, comfortable hiking socks. You’ll want a sock that covers your ankles and offers plenty of support and cushioning for your feet, like the Darn Tough Full-Cushion Boot Sock. Also, look for socks that wick away or absorb moisture from your feet, or consider a pair of liners to wear inside your socks.

In colder weather, gloves are an excellent thing to have along on a hike. Not only do they keep your hands warm, the right pair will keep them dry and protect your hands if you’re using trekking poles or are on a trail that requires a lot of hand holds. The Trailsmith Gloves from REI are an example of extra-tough hiking gloves. Look around and find the right gloves for you.

A neck gaiter is a really awesome thing to have along on a cold weather hike. You can use it to keep your neck, ears and face warm if the wind picks up, and you can pull it down if the weather improves. They also make good impromptu face coverings when quickly passing other hikers on the trail. Columbia’s Trail Shaker is a solid gaiter for fall hiking.

A warm head makes for a happy hiker, and a warm hat will do the trick. When you’re out in biting weather, it’s nice to have built-in ear protection in a hat. Outdoor Research’s Peruvian Gore-Tex Infinium Hat is a good example of a hat that offers ear protection when you want it.

New England is world-renowned for its fall colors and visitor attractions, and Ride The Wilds has everything you need to see them from the seat of an ATV. Dedicated in 2013, this system has over 1,000 miles of interconnected trails in northern New Hampshire. Along the entire route, Ride The Wilds is connected to small towns that welcome ATV riders to enjoy their hospitality, fall festivals, and rider services, including food, fuel and lodging.

Ride The Wilds is popular with both novice and experienced riders. The terrain varies from easy-riding gravel roads and trails that wind their way through scenic woods and pastures, to routes for more experienced riders up into the mountains of New Hampshire, with many scenic stops for panoramic views of fall colors.

The Ride the Wilds website has many resources to help you plan your trip, including information on registering your vehicle or renting one, plus dining, shopping, attractions and lodging.

TrailsHeaven is the name of the website for Hatfield-McCoy Trails. And for good reason. This expansive, professionally managed trail system offers over 600 miles of trails for off-road enthusiasts of all skill levels. Riders trailer their vehicles here from across the country, knowing they will experience a wide variety of fun, scenic and sometimes challenging routes, with heavenly views of the mountains of southern West Virginia.

Hatfield-McCoy is actually seven different trail systems, all connected to ATV-friendly towns where riders can find great places to eat and shop, with generous doses of Southern hospitality. Trails range from the scenic mountain views of the Pinnacle Creek Trail, to the tight and twisting trails of the Bearwallow Trail. Bed & Breakfasts, cabins and campgrounds are plentiful, all welcoming ATV owners year-round.

The Hatfield-McCoy website takes you step-by-step through trip planning, including how to get a trail permit, choose the right trail for your experience level, find lodging to match your group size and budget…and more. 

Paul Bunyan is a giant of American folklore. Just south of Bemidji, Minnesota, site of the famous statue of Paul and Babe the Blue Ox, stands the giant of all ATV trail systems in the Midwest. The Round River Drive Trail : attracts ATV and dirt bike riders from across the state as well as neighboring states and Canadian provinces.

Here, they can ride up to 100 miles of signed and maintained trails, choosing easy-riding forest roads winding their way through pine forests, or narrow, twisting, rock-filled ATV trails designated as moderate to difficult. An additional 100 miles of single-track trails are open to off-highway motorcycles only.

The public trailhead features a large parking area that accommodates RVs and trailers, with a few spots for free camping, no reservations required. The Stompin' Grounds Campground and Lodge, located right off the trail on the southern end of Round River Drive, caters to day-trippers and week-enders, with free parking and a wash station, plus a bar and grill, and many reservable campsites. 

Riding the trails of Moab is unlike anything else in the country. This area of Utah has hundreds of miles of unique trails on “slickrock,” with breathtaking views of rock formations sculpted by the wind. Choose any of 30 trails, from easy-riding routes geared toward families new to the sport to difficult trails that challenge the technical skills of the most experienced riders.

There are many steep climbs and descents, with dramatic views of La Sal Mountains, Abyss Canyon, and the Colorado River. Want to ride but don’t own an ATV? There are adventure tour companies where you can rent a side-by-side ATV or 4-wheel drive truck and head out on your own or sign on to a guided trail ride of non-stop outdoor adventure. 

It’s official name is Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area. But everyone calls this open riding area of golden sand by the name of the local community: Glamis.

Located in the southeast corner of California and managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Glamis is the largest mass of sand dunes in the state. While you won’t find fall foliage here, in late fall, Glamis is a sight to see, for the variety of ATVs, side-by-sides and sand rails riding and racing each other, and the beauty of the dunes that reach heights of 300 feet above the desert floor. A note of trivia: these sand dunes were featured in the movies Star Wars and The Scorpion King.

The Glamis dunes stretch for 40 miles, with most of the riding activity in the area south of Highway 78. You’ll need to know the rules and regulations before riding there. Two “must-haves” are a riding permit and a tall safety flag, so other riders can see you coming over the top of a dune. Fall is a great time to get out to Glamis and enjoy a roller coaster ride on the sand. 

But here’s the deal: ATVs are motorized, and with that comes important safety rules you need to follow.  

According to the Consumer Protection Safety Commission, in 2015, there were 97,200 injuries related to riding ATVs—28 percent involved kids under 16 years-old. Here are some smart tips from seasoned riders, to ensure that you and your family members have the best ATV experience possible.

For one thing, kids should not be placed upon some big honking device—there are ATVs specifically sized for younger riders, so look into them. Engine CCs of up to 70 are good for kids aged 11 and under. 250 CCs and up work for intermediate/advanced riders. Rule of thumb: When it comes to engine size, it’s better to go too small versus too big (and always keep an eye on kids under 16 years of age).

Sure, ATVs look easy to drive, but because they’re motorized vehicles, any and everyone who plans to board one should take a basic course in how to drive them. It’s just good sense, so do not skip this important step! 

Whether you rent or buy your ATV, review the owner’s manual to get the skinny on how it works.

Meaning, check fluid levels (gas, oil, coolant), chains, air filter, and tire pressure before you get started. There are many riders who just want to hop on and take off—only to be stranded later by something as simple as an empty gas tank.  

Whether you’re renting or have just bought a new ATV, the default position will be different from yours. Take a moment to adjust handlebars, clutch, and any levers to make them “yours.”

Even in warmer months, there are some non-negotiables when it comes to ATV gear. Most importantly, a helmet. ATVs are meant to go over some dodgy terrain, and the possibility of being knocked off—and out—is a real thing. For that reason alone, a helmet is essential.  Other important pieces of gear include gloves, boots that go over your ankle, long pants and long-sleeved shirt, a chest protector, and goggles. Face it, the trail kicks up lots of unexpected “surprises,” like a pothole or big branch, so take no chances. It’s not worth it.

Sure, the ATV goes “vroom vroom”—and it may be tempting to race the motor, and pop a wheelie. But that’s a fast way to hurting yourself. It’s a fact that more folks are injured riding ATVs than in any other outdoor sport, so be responsible.

Remember those potholes and errant branches? Even wearing safety gear, you could still wind up in serious trouble. Always take someone with you when riding. But never put someone on the back of a single-rider ATV.

Probably my favorite weekend of the year with these guys!

A post shared by Nick Moses (@nmoses166) on Oct 9, 2016 at 8:32pm PDT

Seriously. Just don’t! 

There’s a reason “terrain” is part of the name: off-road is where they’re meant to be used. On that same note, don’t cross over onto private property, and be respectful of environmentally-sensitive areas like dunes.

*Note: Age restrictions, special licenses, and other requirements for off highway vehicles vary from state to state. Before heading out on your OHV, please consult your local regulations.

Shooting arrows and getting in the “reps” is advantageous to archers, especially in developing form and technique. Repeating the same actions over and again trains the muscles and mind to execute the shot subconsciously. That is the goal of every high-level archer; giving yourself too many instructions while competing isn’t normally a good thing. Olympic archers will shoot as many as 2,000 to 3,000 arrows in a week as part of their training so when the pressure is on, they have absolute trust in themselves and their process to execute the shots they need to hit the 10-ring.

Does that mean you need to be shooting 3,000 arrows per week? Probably not.

Periodization Training

Serious and competitive archers will always want to practice shooting, and they will want to have training sessions of 200 to 400 arrows, depending on where they are in their competition season. They won’t always shoot the maximum number of arrows that they can handle, but they will follow specific routines of how many arrows to shoot each day in the lead-up to their next big competition. This is called periodization training. Periodization refers to the raising and lowering of an archer’s arrow volume in order to achieve on-demand peak performance at a specific time or event. Without this, elite archers would suffer burnout and would not be able to endure an entire outdoor competition season that can last for several months.

Too much archery practice can lead to a myriad of problems, and the most common problem is repetitive use injuries. The repetitive motion of shooting a bow, combined with the one-sidedness of only pulling with your dominant side, can give you muscle or tendon strain that can take a while to heal. Knowing your limits with practice can help you avoid injury. Eager archers often want to increase their arrow volume in practice sessions too aggressively and too quickly, say, by jumping from 150 arrows one day to 300 the next. While some people can handle doing this, the majority of archers cannot. It is smarter to increase arrow volume a little at a time so your body doesn’t get a shock when too many arrows are shot in a single session. If you want to start bumping up your volume, a methodical procedure is the better way to go. For example, start with an arrow volume of 150 and stay there for several practice sessions. Then increase by 10% to 165 arrows per session for several sessions, and repeat. By following a similar process, you reduce the chances of injury in your shooting muscles while steadily increasing the volume of practice.

Giving yourself days off is also highly recommended to avoid practicing too much and giving yourself an injury. Most high-level Olympic archers take scheduled days off during their week to allow their bodies time to recover. As an example, the Dutch team takes the weekends off or does a very light volume of 100 arrows on either Saturday or Sunday (yes, 100 arrows is a small amount for those archers). The Turkish team trains for two weeks and then takes a day or two off, depending on where they are in the season. You will be able to find your limit of how much shooting is too much and devise a schedule to suit your needs.

Make sure that you don’t just shoot, but try to be active in other ways. If you want to stay in archery for a long time, you should take the time to keep yourself healthy and active. A balanced body will lead to fewer problems that can arise from the one-sided aspect of archery. Learn your own practice thresholds and you’ll be training — not overtraining — like the pros.

The post Can You Practice Too Much? appeared first on Archery 360.

After the shot, stay as calm as you can and stay focused on the deer. Watch it as long as you can then listen even longer. Often you will hear the deer long after you can’t see it anymore.

Before you leave your stand, pick a clear landmark where you last saw the deer and another where you last heard the deer. Also, pick a landmark noting where the deer was when you shot. Have these landmarks firmly in your mind before you exit yours stand. If you have a compass, take a bearing to each of these locations. Snap a few photos with your cell phone or use a small notepad to note the locations or draw yourself a little schematic that shows these three key landmarks.

Go to where you last saw the deer and look for blood and tracks. Remember to look on the bushes as well as on the ground for blood. If you fail to find any, go to spot where you shot the deer and search for blood and/or hair. If you still don’t find a blood trail of any kind, go back to your stand and double check to make sure you were looking in the right places.

Next, start where you last saw the deer and walk to the location where you last heard the deer. Watch for blood and other sign along the way. Sometimes it takes a while for the blood trail to start. 

When you find blood, note its location. Is it high up on the bushes and far out from the trail? That might indicate arterial spurting. Does it seem to be in the center of the tracks, even though you took a broadside shot? That might be lung blood leaking out of the nose and mouth. Is the blood in the track? Maybe it’s running down the leg.

Is there green gunk on the ground with a little blood? That’s a gut shot. Resist the tendency to keep tracking that deer. Leave quietly and come back in the morning, or at least six hours later. A gut shot deer will lie down very quickly and if you leave it alone, it will die in that bed. Usually it will be relatively close to where you shot it. But if you keep pushing and jump the deer, they can turn into the Terminator, unable or unwilling to die and they can run for miles.

Did you find pieces of bone? Trust me, it’s not ribs as so many people think; 95% of the time it is pieces of leg bone. You may get that deer, but it’s not going to be easy.

A lot of blood at the start that turns into a few drips and then stops in a ¼ mile or so, is usually a low hit in the brisket. You are in for a long day with that deer.

With a leg or brisket hit, the deer is very mobile and will keep moving if pushed. If you can get some help, it’s best to place hunters along the escape routes and hope the deer comes by as you track the blood.

If the blood trail is tough to follow, mark the blood you found with toilet paper or torn paper towels, so you can easily find it again. Although many people recommend using flagging material, I don’t use it. I know you plan to come back and take it all down, but plans rarely work out. Flagging tape lasts a long time in the woods. Paper towels or toilet paper are biodegradable and will disappear rather quickly.

Often, if you line up several pieces of paper you left hanging on branches you can see a clear direction of travel, which is a good place to continue the search if you have lost the blood and tracks.

Take care to walk to the side of the deer trail. You never want to step on the tracks or the blood. You may think you won’t need to come back and find them again, but you will probably be wrong. Leave all the sign untrampled.

Tracking With Technology

Photograph Courtesy of Leupold® & Stevens, Inc.

I used a thermal imaging unit in Zimbabwe a few years ago to watch for lions while the PH and trackers cut up a buffalo I had shot just before dark. Back then they were very expensive. Today, there are several affordable units designed for tracking.

I have been using a Leupold LTO Quest. This is their entry-level unit and it has a camera and flashlight built in with the thermal sensor. Leupold claims the LTO Quest can detect heat signatures out to 300 yards. Deer season is closed as I am writing this, so I am finding alternatives to test it with. It easily can find my dogs even when they are out some distance.

I couldn’t find a blood donor to help with the test, so I spit on my walkway on a cool night. The unit could easily see it, even after several minutes. This unit is sensitive enough that when I stood on my deck in my socks, the unit could detect my foot prints for several minutes after.

This technology may well be a game changer for tracking and finding wounded deer in the years ahead.

If you lose the blood trail, make wide sweeping circles that start and end at the last place you found blood. Keep your eyes on the ground and miss nothing. If you fail to find the trail, make a bigger circle. Repeat as necessary.

The recent passing of a deer will scuff up the leaves. Older tracks will settle from time and gravity, but a fresh track will show a bit higher. It’s usually not noticeable when standing up, but when you get your eyes to ground level you can often see the trail very clearly.

A grid search is just what it sounds like. Divide the land into a giant grid, just like on graph paper. The lines should be close together so that no part of the land is unseen. Walk along these imaginary lines one by one until you find the deer, or some sign of the deer, or have walked the entire grid.

In that case, expand the grid and repeat. Look under every bush and in every brush pile. A mortally wounded deer will often crawl under cover and will die there.

You have no doubt read that when tracking at night, a Coleman lantern, “makes blood glow like neon.” The lantern does show blood a bit better than a conventional flashlight, but it’s always been a disappointment to me when I have used one. Besides, who has a Coleman lantern in their backpack?

A quality flashlight will show blood like its electrified. It’s a good idea to have one in your pocket or backpack when hunting.

Walk along while thinking, “If I were a wounded deer, which way would I go?” Just follow your instincts. You may have to return to the last sign and strike out in another direction a few times, but sooner or later the odds are you will find a new spot of blood or identifiable track and you’ll be back in the game.

Another approach is to turn off your brain and just walk. Let the terrain and vegetation guide your feet. Deer and other animals will take the path of least resistance and if you walk in a “Zen” state, going with the flow, you will find you do the same thing.

Once you get in tune with the woods, things like that just happen in the back of your mind. If you try to think about it too much, you screw it up, but if you just let the reptilian part of your brain operate then eons of evolution are suppressed and the caveman in you will come out of hiding and turn you into a creature of the woods, just like the deer. I know this may sound a bit too “new age,” but I have found several animals we thought were hopeless using this technique.

This means getting your base pack weight down to somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 to 20 pounds, while packing smart to bring the items to keep you safe and comfortable at the same time.

But getting started with ultralight hiking can be a bit daunting, making it difficult to know what you should and shouldn’t bring with you on a backpacking excursion. If you’ve been looking for ways to dip your toe in the ultralight pond, we have 10 tips that can help you get started. 

One of the first things you should do when looking to cut excess weight from your pack is to evaluate everything that you’re bringing with you. Chances are there are some items that you don’t actually need that are just taking up space and adding ounces.

For instance, one set of clothes that function as a good layering system is all that you really need to stay comfortable on the trail. It may be nice to have something clean to put on every day, but if you want to travel faster and lighter, that is a luxury you’ll have to learn to do without. 

When selecting the gear that you want to take with you, break out the scale and check to see just how much everything weighs. You may discover that items you thought were lightweight are actually heavier than you imagined. You’ll also gain a better sense of what is contributing to your overall pack weight, too.

A good backpack is essential to any hiking excursion, but if your pack is more than a couple of years old, or hasn’t been specifically designed to go ultralight, it probably weighs more than it should.

These days, a lightweight pack often tips the scales at less than two pounds, which is substantially lighter than most other bags on the market. For instance, Hyperlight Mountain Gear’s 2400 Southwest model weighs just 1.9 pounds and offers 40-liters of carrying capacity, making it a great choice for nearly any adventure.

Osprey’s Levity line (for men) and Lumina Line (for women) of ultralite packs is also an excellent option to consider.

Tents made of all mesh have replaced traditional shelters for many lightweight hikers, but there are several other options to consider as well. For instance, a lot of ultra-lighters prefer to use a simple tarp to keep wind and rain at bay, while others have taken to using hammocks instead.

With a weight of just 5.8 ounces, the ENO Sub6 is a popular option for hammock campers, while the Zpacks Hexamid Pocket Tarp is even lighter at 3.4 ounces. 

Rather than bringing a sleeping bag for the worst conditions that you could encounter, bring one that is designed for use in the conditions you are most likely to be camping in. That bag will naturally be smaller and lighter, but still comfortable. Should an unexpected cold snap hit, bundle up in some extra layers for added warmth.

Traditionally, hikers have worn rugged boots to keep their feet well protected on the trail, and while those shoes have gotten lighter over the years, they still tend to be heavier than what ultralight backpackers need.

Instead, consider switching to a pair of trail running shoes, which still offer plenty of protection and stability while also managing to cut a serious amount of weight. Altra’s Lone Peak 3.5 is a popular option that doesn’t compromise support while still weighing just 12.5 ounces.

While hydration reservoirs and Nalgene bottles are usually standard equipment on most hiking trips, they do add extra weight to your pack. A disposable 1-liter water bottle is inexpensive, refillable, weighs less than 6 ounces, and offers plenty of capacity to keep you hydrated on the trail. When you return home, simply recycle it.

Gear that can serve more than one purpose can save weight and make you more efficient. For instance, trekking poles are not only good for maintaining balance on tricky trails, but they can also serve as poles for your shelter, too.

Similarly, a Buff can be used as a hat, headband, balaclava, or even a scarf, while a multitool, like Leatherman’s Signal, can serve numerous functions, too. The more versatile a piece of gear is the more likely you’ll want to carry it. 

Buying new lightweight gear isn’t always an option, but you can modify your existing gear to save some weight. For example, remove excesses belts, straps, and buckles from your backpack to shave ounces or leave tent stakes at home in favor of a free-standing shelter instead.

Ultralight backpackers will go to great lengths to remove unnecessary weight, including cutting the handle off their toothbrush, crafting a stove from a cat food can, and taking a first aid kit with only the bare minimum of items. 

A smartphone can be incredibly useful on the trail, serving as a GPS device, camera, and entertainment center. But mobile phones and other electronic gadgets also require power to keep them working, otherwise they just become dead weight. That means you’ll also need to carry a battery pack, solar panel, or some other method for keeping the device charged in the backcountry. 

All of these items add extra weight to your pack that you don’t necessarily need. Besides, part of the reason we go into the wilderness is to escape those devices in the first place. 

Being properly dressed is a very important part of any hunt, but especially so with deer hunting. On any given day, you may go from a leisurely walk to your stand to sitting still for hours and then, with some luck and skill, you’ll be exerting much energy field dressing and dragging out your deer back to the truck. During the hunt you may be in an enclosed blind, which cuts down on wind exposure, or perched high in a tree stand exposed to all the elements. For each of these scenarios and everything in between, you’ll need to dress according and also for the weather. An example:

I spend the majority of my time hunting deer in New York’s Catskills and Adirondacks, so the weather is both cold and ever-changing during our deer season there. I’ve come to appreciate wool clothing from companies like Jagdhund and Filson for their ability to breathe and yet keep me warm when it gets wet. I also appreciate modern fabrics for base layers—Under Armour garments wick moisture away from your skin wonderfully. 

Note I mentioned base layers. In colder climes, layering your clothing is vital. That long walk into your stand will leave you sweating, and putting on layers once you’re situated in your stand, you’re quickly going to chill as that sweat dries, and that makes for a long, uncomfortable day of hunting. But layering isn’t limited to cold-weather hunts. Deer hunting in southern climes can start with very cool pre-dawn hours, but by mid-morning you’re roasting. A base layer of a breathable, wicking layer should be a no-brainer, with a lighter layer or two on top for the walk to the stand and those hours before the sun amps up to broil.

A note about camouflage. It is very important to bowhunters, as they need to be close to game. Remember, camo is about breaking up the shape of the human form, something most animals recognize as danger, rather than hiding you in totality. That said, it certainly doesn’t hurt those who enjoy hunting with a firearm, but sitting still and staying downwind of a deer is more important than any camo pattern. Too, nearly every firearms deer season in this country requires the use of blaze orange. Amounts of blaze orange required will vary by state and sometimes locality, so check your game regulations carefully to make sure you’re in compliance.

Footwear that best suits the area you’re hunting is paramount. Wet, cold or sore feet can end a hunt faster than anything. Hunting boots should be well-worn and properly broken in, whether they are light hiking boots for early season or heavy pac boots for frigid hunts. 

I generally do a lot of walking while hunting deer, combined with sitting for anywhere from one to three hours at a time, so I ask an awful lot of my hunting boots. To avoid blisters, I insist on high-quality wool socks, no matter the temperature, and they also keep my feet warm, even if sweaty or wet. 

Sitting on stand for deer, while very exciting on opening morning, can get downright boring. A good binocular used for searching for deer in the brush and thick woods or far across a soybean field occupies your mind and helps pass the time. You will also see more deer with a binocular than without one—and you’ll often see them well before they get to a point where you’re ready to shoot, giving you time to prepare. I’ve used many binocular brands, including Leica, Bushnell, and Leupold, and will tell you that you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to a binocular. 

A good daypack or backpack, with all your gear neatly organized, can make your time on stand much more comfortable. A pair of warm gloves, perhaps an extra hat, handwarmers, a granola bar, bottle of water, a sharp knife, and many other light yet welcome items such as a rangefinder can be stored in your pack. Now, that’s not to say that you need to bring everything but the kitchen sink with you, but a few spare rounds of ammunition or a flashlight for tracking a wounded deer in the dark can make a world of difference should something go wrong. A small roll of surveyor’s tape, for instance, doesn’t take up much room in a pack, and can mark the last bit of blood or a trail back to the vehicle. Even a small book can be stowed in your hunting pack to help keep you on your stand longer. 

I have a few packs that have served me well over the years, from a leather “possibles” bag that carries the bare necessities to a soft backpack (I like the Pelican MPB35) with lots of compartments for assorted gear. Depending on where I’m hunting, the terrain, and the distance from my vehicle, I may change packs several times a season. 

Every deer hunter needs a knife, as it will serve a number of different purposes. I like a good fixed blade, but you certainly don’t need a Bowie knife, Roman short sword or John Rambo’s blade to get the job of field dressing done. You can also opt for a folding knife. A blade three to four inches in length will definitely suffice, so long as it’s solidly made and sharp. Such a blade gets the basic gutting job done. For skinning, boning and other butchering duties back home in your workshop or garage, other blades will be needed. For a one-stop solution, knives with replaceable blade knives—Havalon knives come quickly to mind—are an option.

A small cushion for your bottom, which will not only keep you more comfortable but also dry and warmer, is a welcome addition to any hunt. Sitting for long periods (think about an airline flight) causes discomfort, which leads to fidgeting, and movement is never good in the deer woods. Invest in a good cushion, and your bottom will thank you later.