Before you even start packing your backpack, the very first thing you’ll want to do is organize the gear that you’ll be taking with you on the trip.

Start by laying it all out on the floor to get a sense of everything you plan to bring along. This gives you the opportunity to take a quick inventory of your equipment and identify the things that might be missing from the collection, not to mention the items that aren’t necessary for that particular outing. It is also a good way to assess whether or not your backpack has the capacity to haul everything you want to take with you.

Once you’ve collected all of the gear that you’ll be using on your trip, the next step is to start putting all of it inside your pack.

Naturally that means starting at the bottom, where you’ll place the items that you’ll least likely need to access throughout the day or when you first arrive at camp that night. Those items generally include the following:

• Sleeping bag
• Extra camp shoes
• Any layers of clothing that you aren’t likely to need on the trail that day. 

To get started:

A. First place your sleeping bag at the very bottom of the pack. This helps give the bag some shape and provides a soft cushion where the pack rests against your lower back.

B. If you’re bringing an extra pair of shoes, place them on top of the sleeping bag.

C. Then stuff your additional layers of clothing on or around the shoes to help hold everything securely in place.

The middle section of your backpack is where you want to store heavier items that you won’t necessarily need while hiking.

This creates a good center of gravity, helping you to maintain your sense of balance on the trail, even while scrambling over rocks or up and down rough terrain. If bulky items are too close to the bottom they can cause the backpack to hang lower than it should, potentially causing discomfort. If those items are placed near the top, they can alter the center of gravity, creating instability. They would also just be in the way when trying to access items that need to be more readily available.

The gear that you’ll want to stash in the core section of your pack includes your:

• Tent
• Camp stove
• Cooking pots
• Any food that you won’t need throughout the day.
• It is also a good place to store extra clothing, fuel canisters, and a bear canister (for storing food) if one is required where you’ll be camping.

Finally, you’ll top off your backpack with the items that you’re most likely need to access during the day, as well as the things you’ll want close at hand should an emergency arise.

For example, if it starts to rain, you’ll want to be able to grab your rain gear as quickly as possible, so having a waterproof jacket in an easily accessible place is a good idea. The top of the pack is also a good place to stash your lunch, too, as you’re likely to stop somewhere along the way for a quick meal.

Other items that should be packed close to the top include:

• An insulated jacket
• First aid kit
• Any toilet supplies 

The top of your pack is also the perfect location for your headlamp, extra snacks, and a water filter, as those are important items you may need to grab while en route from one campsite to the next.

With the inside of your pack quickly filling up, you’ll find extra storage space outside of the bag to be a handy place to store smaller items. For instance, most packs have gear straps at the bottom that are perfect for attaching a sleeping pad. Lashing points are good for holding trekking poles and ice axes, or attaching a GPS device or compass via a lanyard for easy access.

External pockets are designed for holding tent poles, a water bottle, or a pair of shoes. A lightweight solar panel can even be connected to the pack for charging small electronics while you’re on the go.

Most backpacks have hip belts equipped with small zippered pockets, too. These are handy for keeping energy bars, a camera, or a smartphone within easy reach.

Once you’ve securely loaded all of the gear in your pack and made sure your footwear is in order, you’ll be ready to hit the trail. By following these guidelines, the weight load should be well distributed, and all of your equipment should be organized, too. This will make hiking with a full pack much more enjoyable and keep things simple when arriving at your campsite at the end of the day.

Because these vehicles are meant to be used on unpaved areas, there are risks involved, thus certain pieces of gear are required if you want to ride safely. Depending on where you plan to go, you may be able to rent a lot of items from local outfitters—especially in tourist areas. Considering that a brand new ATV can run anywhere from $3,000 to over $12,000, giving the sport a “test drive” by renting is just smart.

Here’s the essential gear needed for riding ATVs:

 Head and neck injuries account for 29 percent of ATV-related injuries. Don’t be a hot shot—always, always wear a helmet.

Not only will they make it easier to see where you’re going, they’ll save your eyeballs from unexpected encounters with rocks, dust, and branches.

This means long pants and shirtsleeves, boots that go over the ankle, gloves, and a chest protector. Remember that you’re riding in areas where anything and everything can be kicked up by your vehicle, so don’t take any chances of being the target of some random projectile. Also, you can get seriously nasty burns if you fall off. The right clothing can minimize any injuries. 

A fully-charged cell phone in case you get lost or someone gets seriously hurt.

Pack a few basic items like a Swiss Army knife, duct tape, and a vise grip. Experienced riders also swear by those plastic zip ties—you’d be surprised at how many uses they have.

A flat tire or slow leak can ruin your ride.

When your riding partner has gotten their vehicle stuck in a crazy place, this could make the difference in getting it back on the trail—or not.

You never know when you and your riding partner may need to patch up a few cuts and scrapes. And while most cell phones have a GPS feature, batteries don’t last forever. Take a map of the area (if available) and compass with you in case you have to navigate the old-fashioned way.  

It’s easy to lose track of your fuel when you’re having fun. Pack extra.

You’d be surprised at how fast you can get dehydrated when riding, especially in the warm summer months. Dehydration can make you feel faint, so drinking enough water won’t just make your ride more comfortable, it’s a good safety tip.

So before climbing aboard, take the time to outfit all members of your “ATV team” with the right gear. It will make your ride much more fun—not to mention, safe.

*Note: Age restrictions, special licenses, and other requirements for off highway vehicles vary from state to state. Before heading out on your OHV, please consult your local regulations.

Before heading out to fish with your dog, you need to make sure that your pup is ready for the conditions. Is your dog comfortable around water? If you’re fishing from a vessel, has your dog ever been on a boat before? These are some things to consider ahead of time. In addition, you need to make sure that your dog obeys your commands and that he or she won’t do things like chase bait you throw into the water or chase fish that you release. Finally, check with your vet to see if there is anything to be concerned about, like contaminated water in the area where you’re fishing, before you go.

If you’re fishing from a boat, both you (of course) and your dog should wear a personal flotation device (PFD). When fishing from shore, you should consider whether your dog is a strong swimmer. If you’re lake fishing and your dog swims well, a PFD probably isn’t necessary. On the other hand, for dogs that don’t swim particularly well, or when fishing the banks of a large or swift river, a PFD, like Ruffwear’s Float Coat, may not be a bad idea for your dog.

Whether fishing from land or from a boat, you may want to consider a tether, like Kong’s lifeline for your dog. On a boat, a tether can help to ensure your pup doesn’t accidentally go overboard—especially when you’re underway. On land, a tether will prevent your dog from entering the water while you’re trying to fish, and in areas where there may be leash laws, keep you legal.

With your dog in the area, make sure that you’ve got all your fishing gear put away and stored. Be especially careful with hooks, or lures with hooks, bait, including artificials, and anything that may contain lead. Along these same lines, also make sure you know where your pup is any time you are casting, in order to prevent an accidental hooking.

When you head out fishing with your dog, make sure you pack plenty of snacks and/or dog food to keep him or her happy throughout the day. If you’re saltwater fishing, fishing an iffy water source, or just prefer that your pup doesn’t drink from lakes or streams, you’ll need to pack in water or, at minimum, a water filter. Whether you bring water or let your dog drink water from where you’re fishing, bring something for your pup to drink from, like Prima Pets’ collapsible silicone bowl, to ensure that your dog’s not ingesting anything but water and that nothing in the water is trying to ingest your dog.

Clearly, if you’re on a boat, you’ve got to figure out a way for your pup to go potty. Depending on your preference, you can pull up on land for breaks, put your pup in a doggy diaper, or designate a spot on the boat for your best friend’s business, and clean up. On shore, just make sure your dog is well away from the water when he or she goes to the bathroom. Whether on a boat or on shore, be sure to pack plenty of poop bags and be prepared to pack them out and dispose of them properly.

This means getting your base pack weight down to somewhere in the neighborhood of 12 to 20 pounds, while packing smart to bring the items to keep you safe and comfortable at the same time.

But getting started with ultralight hiking can be a bit daunting, making it difficult to know what you should and shouldn’t bring with you on a backpacking excursion. If you’ve been looking for ways to dip your toe in the ultralight pond, we have 10 tips that can help you get started. 

One of the first things you should do when looking to cut excess weight from your pack is to evaluate everything that you’re bringing with you. Chances are there are some items that you don’t actually need that are just taking up space and adding ounces.

For instance, one set of clothes that function as a good layering system is all that you really need to stay comfortable on the trail. It may be nice to have something clean to put on every day, but if you want to travel faster and lighter, that is a luxury you’ll have to learn to do without. 

When selecting the gear that you want to take with you, break out the scale and check to see just how much everything weighs. You may discover that items you thought were lightweight are actually heavier than you imagined. You’ll also gain a better sense of what is contributing to your overall pack weight, too.

A good backpack is essential to any hiking excursion, but if your pack is more than a couple of years old, or hasn’t been specifically designed to go ultralight, it probably weighs more than it should.

These days, a lightweight pack often tips the scales at less than two pounds, which is substantially lighter than most other bags on the market. For instance, Hyperlight Mountain Gear’s 2400 Southwest model weighs just 1.9 pounds and offers 40-liters of carrying capacity, making it a great choice for nearly any adventure.

Osprey’s Levity line (for men) and Lumina Line (for women) of ultralite packs is also an excellent option to consider.

Tents made of all mesh have replaced traditional shelters for many lightweight hikers, but there are several other options to consider as well. For instance, a lot of ultra-lighters prefer to use a simple tarp to keep wind and rain at bay, while others have taken to using hammocks instead.

With a weight of just 5.8 ounces, the ENO Sub6 is a popular option for hammock campers, while the Zpacks Hexamid Pocket Tarp is even lighter at 3.4 ounces. 

Rather than bringing a sleeping bag for the worst conditions that you could encounter, bring one that is designed for use in the conditions you are most likely to be camping in. That bag will naturally be smaller and lighter, but still comfortable. Should an unexpected cold snap hit, bundle up in some extra layers for added warmth.

Traditionally, hikers have worn rugged boots to keep their feet well protected on the trail, and while those shoes have gotten lighter over the years, they still tend to be heavier than what ultralight backpackers need.

Instead, consider switching to a pair of trail running shoes, which still offer plenty of protection and stability while also managing to cut a serious amount of weight. Altra’s Lone Peak 3.5 is a popular option that doesn’t compromise support while still weighing just 12.5 ounces.

While hydration reservoirs and Nalgene bottles are usually standard equipment on most hiking trips, they do add extra weight to your pack. A disposable 1-liter water bottle is inexpensive, refillable, weighs less than 6 ounces, and offers plenty of capacity to keep you hydrated on the trail. When you return home, simply recycle it.

Gear that can serve more than one purpose can save weight and make you more efficient. For instance, trekking poles are not only good for maintaining balance on tricky trails, but they can also serve as poles for your shelter, too.

Similarly, a Buff can be used as a hat, headband, balaclava, or even a scarf, while a multitool, like Leatherman’s Signal, can serve numerous functions, too. The more versatile a piece of gear is the more likely you’ll want to carry it. 

Buying new lightweight gear isn’t always an option, but you can modify your existing gear to save some weight. For example, remove excesses belts, straps, and buckles from your backpack to shave ounces or leave tent stakes at home in favor of a free-standing shelter instead.

Ultralight backpackers will go to great lengths to remove unnecessary weight, including cutting the handle off their toothbrush, crafting a stove from a cat food can, and taking a first aid kit with only the bare minimum of items. 

A smartphone can be incredibly useful on the trail, serving as a GPS device, camera, and entertainment center. But mobile phones and other electronic gadgets also require power to keep them working, otherwise they just become dead weight. That means you’ll also need to carry a battery pack, solar panel, or some other method for keeping the device charged in the backcountry. 

All of these items add extra weight to your pack that you don’t necessarily need. Besides, part of the reason we go into the wilderness is to escape those devices in the first place. 

Fortunately, there are now a number of great solutions available for charging our electronic equipment while on the go. So, whether you’re heading out for just the day or for weeks at a time, these are the best ways to prevent your devices from running out of juice and becoming nothing more than dead weight in your pack.

Even if you’re just going out for day hike, it is always a good idea to take a portable battery pack with you just in case. Sometimes you find yourself hiking for far longer than you expected and the last thing you want is for your smartphone or rechargeable headlamp to die on you just when you need it most.

There are literally dozens of compact battery packs to choose from, but if you’re going to be spending a considerable amount of time in the outdoors, you’ll want one that is rugged and built to withstand the elements. 

Lifeproof’s LifeActive Power Pack ($79.99) fits that description nicely, offering enough power to recharge an iPhone more than three times and featuring a durable case that is both water and drop-proof. The LifeActive includes a quick-charging USB port for rapid refills and bright LED lights that allow it to be used as a flashlight or emergency flasher, too. 

If you are camping or traveling for a few days at a time, a higher capacity battery pack is likely in order. On longer getaways you’re more likely to be carrying extra electronic gear with you, such as a camera, GPS device, or Bluetooth speaker. You’ll also need to keep your smartphone running for extended periods of time too, which can be a challenge in and of itself. 

The RAVPower Exclusives Solar Power Bank ($52.99) stores enough energy to recharge a smartphone as many as ten times and it comes with a built-in flashlight too. It is also dust, drop, and waterproof, has multiple USB in and out ports for rapid recharging, and is equipped with its own solar panel to help keep its internal battery topped off as well.

An extended camping trip lasting a week or longer could involve a considerable amount of electronic gear. Not only will smartphones, cameras, and GPS devices be a part of the mix, but tablets, laptops, and even drones may come along for the journey too.

In those circumstances, you’ll need a much larger power source, typically moving away from compact battery packs in favor of portable power stations instead. What these devices lack in portability they make up for with batteries that are much higher in capacity. They’ll also offer more options when it comes to charging ports too.

The Jackery Explorer 240 ($230) is a great choice when choosing this type of portable power station, bringing a nice mix of size, capacity, and charging options. With 240 watt-hour of battery life it can recharge an iPhone more than 15 times, or a laptop as many as 2-4 times.

And since it features an AC wall outlet built right in, it can be used to power just about anything, from LCD televisions to small appliances. It also includes two quick-charging USB ports and a 12-volt DC port too. On top; of that, it can even be recharged in the field using Jackery’s 50-watt solar panel. 

For those who spend extended periods of time in the backcountry and need power in a base camp setting, a larger power station is likely in order. Not only will you need more capacity, you’ll definitely want more charging ports and outlets too.

Compatibility with a solar panel is a must too since you’ll need a way to recharge the power station over an extended period of time. With the right set-up, you could theoretically stay off the grid indefinitely and keep your electronic gear charged the entire time. 

For these long-term needs, Goal Zero’s Yeti 1000 Lithium is the perfect choice. Not only does it offer more than 1000-watt hours of power, but it includes two AC wall outlets, a 12-volt DC port, and four USB ports, all in a package that weighs just 40 pounds. It is also compatible with the company’s Boulder 100-watt portable solar panel for convenient charging anywhere. 

Unfortunately, treestand falls are a common cause of injury and death among hunters. A misplaced step, a broken tie-on strap or ladder step or a falling tree can all cause catastrophic results. Proper treestand safety techniques can all but eliminate accidents, and teaching young and new hunters to follow these safety tips will result in a lifetime of safe hunting.

Click here to read more about how to stay safe in a treestand.  

But here’s the deal: ATVs are motorized, and with that comes important safety rules you need to follow.  

According to the Consumer Protection Safety Commission, in 2015, there were 97,200 injuries related to riding ATVs—28 percent involved kids under 16 years-old. Here are some smart tips from seasoned riders, to ensure that you and your family members have the best ATV experience possible.

For one thing, kids should not be placed upon some big honking device—there are ATVs specifically sized for younger riders, so look into them. Engine CCs of up to 70 are good for kids aged 11 and under. 250 CCs and up work for intermediate/advanced riders. Rule of thumb: When it comes to engine size, it’s better to go too small versus too big (and always keep an eye on kids under 16 years of age).

Sure, ATVs look easy to drive, but because they’re motorized vehicles, any and everyone who plans to board one should take a basic course in how to drive them. It’s just good sense, so do not skip this important step! 

Whether you rent or buy your ATV, review the owner’s manual to get the skinny on how it works.

Meaning, check fluid levels (gas, oil, coolant), chains, air filter, and tire pressure before you get started. There are many riders who just want to hop on and take off—only to be stranded later by something as simple as an empty gas tank.  

Whether you’re renting or have just bought a new ATV, the default position will be different from yours. Take a moment to adjust handlebars, clutch, and any levers to make them “yours.”

Even in warmer months, there are some non-negotiables when it comes to ATV gear. Most importantly, a helmet. ATVs are meant to go over some dodgy terrain, and the possibility of being knocked off—and out—is a real thing. For that reason alone, a helmet is essential.  Other important pieces of gear include gloves, boots that go over your ankle, long pants and long-sleeved shirt, a chest protector, and goggles. Face it, the trail kicks up lots of unexpected “surprises,” like a pothole or big branch, so take no chances. It’s not worth it.

Sure, the ATV goes “vroom vroom”—and it may be tempting to race the motor, and pop a wheelie. But that’s a fast way to hurting yourself. It’s a fact that more folks are injured riding ATVs than in any other outdoor sport, so be responsible.

Remember those potholes and errant branches? Even wearing safety gear, you could still wind up in serious trouble. Always take someone with you when riding. But never put someone on the back of a single-rider ATV.

Probably my favorite weekend of the year with these guys!

A post shared by Nick Moses (@nmoses166) on Oct 9, 2016 at 8:32pm PDT

Seriously. Just don’t! 

There’s a reason “terrain” is part of the name: off-road is where they’re meant to be used. On that same note, don’t cross over onto private property, and be respectful of environmentally-sensitive areas like dunes.

*Note: Age restrictions, special licenses, and other requirements for off highway vehicles vary from state to state. Before heading out on your OHV, please consult your local regulations.

Here are ten easy fishing tips to ensure that beginning fishermen (of all ages) get the most from this relaxing, family-friendly sport.

The first “must-have”?  A fishing license.  Check your local regulations, because different areas and bodies of water have different laws and  “limits” as to what you can catch. Licenses are relatively cheap, so don’t skip this important step.  If you’re caught without one, you’ll feel worse than if you’d taken a hook to the cheek.

When it comes to fishing, there are different skill levels, some that are hair-raisingly difficult (think, those guys in Jaws.)  Build your confidence by targeting smaller fish like catfish, carp, sunfish, perch, trout or smallmouth bass (these will depend on where you live).

Beginners should stick to shallower, open waters like ponds, streams and lakes to up their chances of reeling one in.

Start by asking those who’ve been fishing for awhile for suggestions on the best locations. Experienced anglers know that it’s easier to draw fish out at a point where two rivers or streams meet.  If you’re fishing on a lake or pond on a windy day, head to where the waves are crashing; fish will be pushed closer to the shore to eat.  Some fish like to hang out near weed beds, or around “sunken treasures” like branches, fallen trees and the like; it gives them cover to feed.

Early mornings and evenings can improve your odds, as can fishing on overcast or light rainy days.

When seeking out your prime fishing spot, always be aware of potential safety hazards: low-hanging branches, power lines and the like that could snag your fishing line.  Not only can it be annoying – it may prove dangerous.  Scout your spot carefully.

Beginning anglers can be overwhelmed by the amount of stuff that’s available at the sporting goods store.  For the time being, stick to the basics.  You’ll need a rod and reel, and a simple tackle kit, which will contain bobbers, hooks and sinkers.  There are versions of each of these that are specially sized for kids, too.  

You need something interesting to attract a fish to your hook. Many fishermen swear by live bait, like worms, small shrimp, insects, minnows and the like.  Artificial lures can also do the trick; they’re designed to mimic a live critter.  Consult a local expert for their take on what works best for the kind of fish you’re trying to snag – and for what is “legal” in your area.

A “bobber” attached to your line will give you a hint that the fish are interested (if it gets pulled under the water).  Over time, you’ll also learn to distinguish the “feel” of the line as a fish takes a bite (versus how it feels when the hook gets snagged on an underwater obstacle).

No matter how placid that body of water appears, never, EVER take it for granted.  Drowning is one of the most common causes of death for kids and teens.  Kids should always be outfitted with an approved flotation device, especially when fishing from a boat.   Other items that should be part of your “kit” include:  bug spray, sunscreen (those reflected rays can major damage before you know it), a first-aid kit, polarized sunglasses (to protect your eyes the sun, but also from errant hooks), a hat and appropriate shoes.

Other safe behavior includes handling your “tackle” (meaning: rod, reel and hooks) in a responsible way.  Know where it is at all times, ‘cause you don’t want someone snagging a hook with a bare foot or hand.  On a similar note, always look behind you before casting, so that you don’t accidentally “hook” a person or power line.  That’s only funny in the movies.

Your first fishing trips will be much more productive if you practice “casting” your line before you go.  Don’t try anything fancy:  practice a standard “overhead” cast.  Again, before you begin, always look behind you for potential obstacles  – which includes people.  

As much as you’d like to bag the “big one” on your first try, it may not happen.  Beginning fishermen should practice their skills over a few closely-spaced trips (that don’t last too long).  Fishing just once or twice a year is like starting over again --  and again.  Hitting the water more frequently builds confidence and increases your chances of nabbing that fish that you’ll be bragging about for the next decade.

You’re out enjoying a day on the water when you notice ominous clouds gathering in the distance.  The thing is, weather can change in an instant, and you need to respect that.  If things look the least bit sketchy, head to shore as soon as you can; anything (or anyone) above water level becomes a “target” for lightning strikes.  If you’re caught in open water during a storm, stay low in your boat and as close to the center as possible.

OK, all you Huck Finn wanna-bes:  grab your gear and head out to the nearest fishin’ hole.  You’ll have stories to share for years about “the one that got away.”

Whether you’re staying in a developed campsite or in the backcountry, it’s always a good practice to keep food smells away from your tent—a clean campsite keeps the critters (bears, raccoons, etc.) away from your sleeping area. To this end, you should cook and store your food, and clean your dishes, as far away from your tent as practicable. In dispersed campsites in bear country, the guidelines are 100 yards from your tent. In developed campsites, follow campground guidelines for cleaning and food storage (e.g., use bear-proof lockers if provided). Use a camp stove to cook meals and do everything you can to minimize spillage. Store waste and food in a locker, bear canister, hanging bag, or in your car, if you must, and be prepared to pack it out or dispose of it according to campground rules.  

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A good way to help ensure that you leave a campsite as you found it is to lay down a tarp or groundcloth in the area where most of your camp activity will take place. Empty the groundcloth of its contents each day, and store the waste as you would food waste, and prepare to pack it out or dispose of it as instructed by campground rules.  

Along the lines of a using groundcloth, keeping a few simple cleaning tools in your camping kit will help you to shore up your campsite and keep it shipshape for the duration of your stay. Use a small hand brush or broom to sweep out mud, dust, and any nonnative seeds that may travel from your campsite back home with you, as well as to sweep off picnic tables, sitting spots, and the aforementioned groundcloth or tarp. A bandanna or other type of cloth is good for wiping down surfaces, cleaning dishes, or cleaning yourself. Bring two, so you can clean one, use the other, then alternate back. Finally, a small scraping tool for pots and pans will make post-meal cleanup much easier. 

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Even developed campgrounds are often in fragile environments, and many have outdated septic systems that are under tremendous strain from the regularly increasing number of people who choose to recreate outdoors. One thing you can do to ease human pressure on the environment is to pack and use biodegradable cleaning and hygiene products—from dish soap to shampoo to toothpaste. Biodegradable versions of just about every kind of cleaning or hygiene product imaginable are available, and if you love being outdoors, there’s no good reason not to use them.

As you are likely aware, camping enthusiasts in this country too often choose the ease of disposable products when they head out to their campsites. This creates unneeded waste and causes significant damage to the environment, whether in the form of litter, plastics that won’t degrade, or air pollution from burned trash. As convenient as disposables may be, it’s even easier to bring a few lightweight, reusable items in your camp kit. Titanium or aluminum cooking pots and pans are light, packable and clean easily—as do titanium eating utensils. A good spork covers just about any meal and reduces the number of things you need to pack. A reusable cup and water bottle can drastically reduce the amount of waste you produce. Finally, when planning your meals before you leave, remove external packaging and repack dry foods into reusable containers or bags that you can pack out with you. A little prior planning can prevent a lot of damage to the environment—and keep your campsite clean.

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Unless there is a designated fire ring in your campsite, you should generally avoid making a campfire. Even within fire rings, burn nothing but firewood—not garbage, paper, or leftovers—that was locally obtained. Gathering firewood is prohibited in many parks and forests, as are campfires. Make sure you know the rules and regulations before you go and be prepared by buying firewood ahead of time or at the park, itself, if sold there. If you do make a fire while in a dispersed or backcountry campsite, follow LNT principles for the fire and for cleaning up afterward. Often, due to dry or windy conditions, locations normally permit campfires may ban them. Check for fire danger—red flag—advisories before trying to make a fire. 

Yesterday was my birthday and while it’s a bit early to think about my eulogy, it has given me reason to reflect a bit on life. 

I am lucky; I have done something I love for much of my adult life. I paid a lot of dues to get here, but I have made my living for several decades by writing about guns and hunting. That has opened a lot of doors to opportunity and none more than for hunting America’s favorite big-game animal, the whitetail deer. 

I honestly don’t know how many deer I have shot, but it’s a bunch. I get to hunt a lot and some years I have taken as many 10 or 15 deer. When you multiply that by 30+ years, well, there is a reason my kids didn’t know what beef tasted like when they were growing up. (I also donated a lot of meat. Nothing was ever wasted.)

I don’t even attempt to deny that I am a hard core gun guy and I tried to use as many different guns and cartridges as possible while hunting. I tried all the popular cartridges as well as some well out of the mainstream. I mean, how many guys do you know who have shot deer with a .25 Remington? How many of you have even heard of that cartridge for that matter? No matter, that cartridge won’t make this list, but here are my top 10 current favorite deer hunting rifle cartridges that do. 

It’s bland, common and a little boring. For years writers would say that the .30-30 Winchester has taken more deer than any other cartridge. You don’t see that claim much anymore, though. That’s because the .30-06 Springfield has no doubt surpassed the .30-30 Winchester as having taken the most deer. 

This is a cartridge that is well suited to any deer hunting anyplace deer are hunted. The .30-06 is available from Federal and many other manufacturers in a wide range of factory ammo loads that offer a huge selection of bullets. This is one of the most versatile cartridges ever created. 

I have a great affinity for .35-caliber cartridges, so it stands to reason that I would have a .35-caliber rifle cartridge high on my list. Why the Whelen? 

In terms of hunting deer, it may well be the best of the bunch. Recoil is mild, the .35 Whelen’s trajectory allows shooting at ethical hunting distances and it simply gobsmacks deer. (I borrowed that phrase from a PH in Zimbabwe.)

I was at a gathering of relatives and old friends recently and the talk turned to hunting in the old days. “I remember when you were a big fan of the .243,” my Uncle Butch said to me.

He is right; there was a time when I thought it was a dragon slayer. My response was, “I have gained a lot more experience and knowledge since then.”

The .243 Winchester is not a dragon slayer, but used correctly, it is a viable deer cartridge.  With high-quality big-game bullets it’s adequate for deer while producing very mild recoil, so new hunters shoot it well.

My first centerfire rifle was a .243 Winchester. I handled a lot of hay bales my 13th summer to buy it, so that cartridge will always hold a place in my hunter’s heart. 

Sorry Mr. O’Conner, I just never took to the .270 Winchester. I tried, but my experiences led me down a different path. 

However, I very much like the .280 Remington. My wife gave me my first .280 shortly after we were married, a long time ago. I have lost track of the game it’s helped me tag in the decades since. 

The .280 Remington can handle bullets up to 175 grains making it very versatile.  It shoots flat for long-range work and is an extremely accurate cartridge.  I have a Remington Custom Shop .280 Remington that weighs just six pounds and will group at ½ MOA.  

.30-30 Winchester—A Deer Hunting Classic

Photograph Courtesy of Vista Outdoor

Many cartridges easily outperform the .30-30 Winchester, but it remains a proverbial favorite among hunters who love hunting deer with a classic lever-action rifle.

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Come on, I can’t leave this out! For a lot of years, I disdained this cartridge. Well before the internet made it popular to do so, I focused on the .30-30’s failures rather than its successes.

Even though it’s old and an obsolete design, and despite the fact that fewer and fewer rifles are sold chambered for the cartridge, the .30-30 still tops ammo sales charts year after year. There must be a reason.

Sometime in my forties I decided that no true gun guy can claim the title and not own a Model 94 in .30-30. I bought one made a year before I was born and took it hunting. A bunch of deer later I changed my mind. What I was not seeing in my youthful arrogance was that my problem with the .30-30 was the hunter’s failures; not the cartridge. If you do it right, this cartridge will put deer on the game pole.

Also, there is a satisfaction in using a “retro” rifle and cartridge and realizing that maybe the old guys did know a thing or two about deer hunting.

This more powerful version of the .280 Remington would never have made my list a year ago, because it was too obscure. It’s a great cartridge that provides near magnum performance without all the magnum baggage, such as more recoil and less magazine capacity. Previously the .280 AI required that a shooter make the cases and handload the ammo. Now it’s starting to go mainstream. 

Nosler and Hornady have factory ammo. Nosler, Kimber and probably others have rifles, too. And I have it on good authority that a major gun maker will be offering .280 AI rifles soon. I predict that will open the floodgates and in a few years most gun makers will offer this cartridge.

I was lucky enough to be on some of the test hunts when this cartridge was being developed. It absolutely performed on everything we hunted, including deer, black bear and even some big stuff, like elk and moose. 

If you are inclined to use an AR rifle for hunting, this is the best choice you can make for big game. 

It might be an old design (1873) but it’s still a modern deer hunting cartridge and a personal favorite. Particularly with new ammo like that offered by Barnes and Hornady. 

For those hunters living in former shotgun-only states where straight-walled rifle cartridges are now being allowed, this is one of the best choices. 

It’s what I’ll be using in Iowa this fall. 

If I could only own one rifle to hunt deer with in North America, it would probably be the .300 Winchester. 

This cartridge has owned a lot of long-range shooting records and it’s one of the top picks for long-range hunting. Unlike a lot of the popular cartridges of the day, it delivers good energy to the target. Everything the .300 Win. Mag. can do at long range it does even better up close. 

It’s also a great choice for the big body, winter tough northern deer. It’s more than just “adequate,” the .300 Win. provides an insurance policy when hunting trophy deer. 

There was a time when the .300 Savage was the cartridge of choice with smart deer hunters. Its performance has only gotten better with advances in propellants and bullets. It’s fun to use a gun and cartridge that was popular when our grandfathers or even great-grandfathers were young and chasing deer. 

I have several classic rifles, like the Remington Model 722 and Model 760, chambered in .300 Savage. I also have the parent rifle for this cartridge, a Savage Model 99. All of them go hunting with me often. 

Long-range hunting is all the rage right now. I am not sure I agree with the ethics of that endeavor, but if you want to reach out and touch something beyond the curvature of the earth, this cartridge does it nicely. It will also put the smack down on any other deer in the woods. It’s never going to break the top 10 in popularity, but it would easily make the list if performance were the only criteria. 

If you’ve read this far you can see my clear bias leans toward large, powerful cartridges for hunting. Don’t assume I have not tried all the others, I have. In fact, you would be hard pressed to name a cartridge I have not shot a deer with. Still, I have left out some that are very popular. I can’t list them all here and a lot of those not on the list are true deer hunting cartridges. Some are left off by design. It’s that experience and knowledge thing shining through. 

All is not lost, however. Here are five easy things you can to do squeeze every bit of mpg from your rig and save big money when you hit the road this summer on vacation.

Tire underinflation is not only dangerous, it’s bad for fuel economy, too. The U.S. Department of Energy calculates that proper tire inflation can improve your fuel economy by up to 3 percent. Doesn’t sound like much? If your pickup is getting 10 mpg while towing, that could mean going nearly 8 more miles per 26-gallon tankful. Depending on how far you tow a trailer during the summer or fall hunting season, those extra miles will add up.

Newer trucks have onboard tire pressure monitoring systems (TPMS) that will trigger a warning light when tire pressure drops about 10 percent. If you don’t have a TPMS, be sure to use a tire gauge to check pressures before you head out. Broad-shouldered all-terrain and mud tires can look soft, even when they’re not, so a 3 to 5-psi drop is going to be tough to eyeball. 

Remember when just about every engine used 10W-40 motor oil, which you could find at every service station when you needed to top off? Heck, remember service stations? Both are dying breeds these days. One reason modern engines run so efficiently is because of their tight tolerances between rotating parts, tolerances that require lighter-weight oils to keep from gumming up the works.

According to the Department of Energy, running 10W-30 (or worse, our venerable 10W-40) in an engine designed to run 5W-30 can reduce fuel economy 1 to 2 percent. Even being off by a little—using 5W-30 when 5W-20 is called for—can impact fuel economy by some 1 to 1.5 percent. Check your owner’s manual for the oil grade recommended by the manufacturer.

On a related note, for newer trucks, the old rule of thumb about changing the oil every 3,000 miles is outdated, too. Modern engines are designed to go 5,000 miles or more between oil changes. Again, make friends with your owner’s manual to see what interval is recommended based on how you use your truck. There’s no need to buy oil more often than you have to. 

Premium fuel, frankly, is misnamed. It is not a better- quality fuel, it simply has a higher level of octane* than mid-grade or regular fuels. Unless your vehicle manufacturer recommends using premium, there is no advantage to using premium fuel in an engine that doesn’t require it.

The AAA confirmed this in a series of engine dynamometer tests in 2016 Their research also turned up a startling statistic: Americans in 2015 wasted some $2.1 billion buying premium fuel they didn’t need.

(*The octane rating is a measure of how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. High-performance engines, or engines that are turbo- or supercharged, often require high-octane fuel because of the higher compression ratios in their cylinder heads. Without the higher octane, the gas in the cylinder could pre-ignite, causing knock or pinging that could damage the engine.)

Speed, literally, kills fuel economy. It would seem obvious that the faster you go, the faster your engine turns and the more fuel it uses. But it’s not quite that simple, as anyone who’s read an EPA mileage chart knows. 

City fuel economy is always lower than highway (for a non-hybrid engine), because at the EPA-tested 55-mph highway speed, the engine is operating in its “sweet spot” of performance efficiency. Go faster and efficiency drops, an effect made worse for pickups and SUVs because they’re heavier and less aerodynamically efficient than passenger cars. 

The internet offers a lot of data about how speed affects a car’s fuel economy. Finding data for trucks is harder. But a 2015 study of medium- and heavy-duty truck efficiency done by the NHTSA had, among its subjects, Ram 2500s equipped with V-6 gas, V-8 gas, and Cummins diesel engines. 

At 50-percent load capacity and on flat ground, the gas V-8 got 15.5 mpg at 55 mph, but mileage dropped to 13.9 mpg at 65 mph. The gas V-6 went from 17.7 mpg at 55 mph to 15.5 at 65. And the diesel got 19.5 mpg at 55 but only 17.9 at 65. So, in those cases, fuel economy dropped anywhere from 8 to 14 percent just by going 10 mph faster. Gas mileage only gets worse at 70 mph and higher.

Setting cruise control makes it easy to maintain speeds that are mpg-friendly—on flat ground, that is. When the going gets hilly, however, it’s best to switch off the cruise control and take over the throttle. 

A driver can anticipate an upcoming grade and gently roll on more pedal as needed, while cruise control will usually let speed drop, then vigorously apply the throttle (and possibly even kick the transmission down a gear or two) to catch back up-not a great technique for maximizing economy.

Aerodynamics play a huge role in fuel economy, which is why truck makers today spend so much time on small details in the truck’s exterior design to reduce its drag coefficient. There are things the truck owner can do, too, in the name of smooth aero. 

Here’s a free one: Leave the tailgate up. It may seem like dropping the tailgate would improve airflow through the bed, but just the opposite is true. Closing the ’gate does trap air in the bed, but that air becomes something like a bubble that deflects the faster air moving over the cab’s roof, reducing drag. 

Adding a tonneau cover on the bed achieves a similar result. A GM engineer interviewed by Motor Trend magazine said the soft tonneau cover that Chevy put on its fuel-efficient Silverado XFE yielded a 0.1- to 0.2-mpg improvement, with the effects being most pronounced on highway economy.

Typically, these waterways are hidden gems. Some of them are snubbed because they take some work and time to access, or they’re surrounded by so many well-known larger fisheries that they stay in the background. But they’re all bass fishing meccas that few people fish and deserving of your attention if you’re ever in the neighborhood.

The St. Regis flows out of the Adirondacks into the St. Lawrence River and is a hidden gem among Northeast bass fisheries. In fact, it shares that distinction with two other nearby St. Lawrence feeders, the Raquette River and the Grasse River.

Though the St. Regis can’t be described as remote, its best fishing lies within the boundaries of the St. Regis Mohawk Reservation – part of the larger Mohawk Nation at Akwesasne. Those who fish with a tribal member or tribal guide aren’t required to purchase the $40 annual permit; otherwise, the permit is available through the St. Regis Mohawk Council Conservation Program. Contact Conservation Officer Taylor Mitchell at 613-575-2250 Ext. 2412 for more information.

Fishing season begins right after ice-out on the reservation, with smallmouths – and lots of them – available in the shoal waters of the St. Regis. Downstream, at the mouth of the river where it meets the St. Lawrence, largemouths predominate. Expect to catch a few northern pike and perhaps even a muskie while casting the standard bass baits.

There are plenty of places to stay and eat in Hogansburg, which is the home of a popular casino. The best bet is to book a local fishing guide such as William Clute of Mohawk Trails (518-358-4373) before setting out on the St. Regis.

Depending on when and where, exceptional bass fishing can be experienced in New England, though perhaps more so because fishing pressure there is relatively light as compared to other regions.

Chalk Candlewood up as one of those underutilized fisheries, even if it is smack dab in one of the largest metropolitan areas in the country.  The 5,400-acre impoundment is surrounded by Brookfield, Danbury, New Fairfield, New Milford and Sherman, Conn., and lots of marinas and guide services are available.

Smallmouths are the main course here, with fish topping 3 pounds on average being plentiful. There are also plenty of largemouths in the 3- and 4-pound class, but some over 8 pounds have been caught in recent years.

To get pointed in the right direction, visit the Candlewood Lake Authority

Lake Erie, Mille Lacs, Lake St. Clair, Chequamegon Bay – there are so many great smallmouth waters in the Upper Midwest that Charlevoix often goes overlooked. Suffice it to say it is one of the best fisheries in the country for giant brownies and lots of them.

This 17,260-acre lake is in the northeast corner of Lake Michigan between Mackinaw City and Traverse City and has the sort of habitat that produces smallmouths that are fat and aggressive. Charlevoix forks about midway into a South Arm and East Arm – the former more popular in late spring and early summer during the spawning season. The deeper water of the East Arm is a useful laboratory for fishermen who want to improve their drop-shotting techniques. The primary bass forage is crawfish and gobies, so crankbaits – lipped and lipless – produce a lot of fish early. Later, in the summer and fall, finesse baits shine.

This is one of those lakes where you don’t have to worry about running out of fish. Charlevoix is connected to Lake Michigan by Round Lake at the town of Charlevoix, so it gets replenished on a regular basis. It’s also a good place to get out of the gales that sweep down from Canada in late summer.

For more information, start with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources  and Visit Charlevoix.

This mountain lake was a sick puppy in 2011. That’s when the TVA impoundment hit rock bottom at 43 feet below normal pool, so repairs could be made to its Wolf Creek Dam. Lake access became a problem and consequently kept a lot of bass from chomping down on lures.

Now Cumberland has bounced back to its full 65,530-acre size and fishes like a new lake full of jumbo hungry bass. As far as numbers of big smallmouths are concerned, Lake Cumberland would give the more famous Dale Hollow to the south a run for its money. Though certain areas are known for their predominant populations of largemouths, smallmouths and spotted bass, the feeder creeks in the lower end of the lake harbors good populations of all three.

For more information regarding local accommodations and a list of lake guides, visit Lake Cumberland’s tourism site.

Once you partake of the gorgeous sweeping views of the southern Appalachians in all directions, you might not care if the fish are biting are not. The scenery surrounding this 7,500-acre lake that sprawls from its dam near Hayesville, N.C. southward to Hiawassee, Ga., can be distracting, but actually the fishing has been coming on strong in the last few years. Mainly that’s due to the increase in the spotted bass population, though at the expense of the native smallmouths.

Largemouth bass are available in good numbers, and spotted bass grown fat on blueback herring are the main course. There are still a few smallmouth bass in the lake, especially on the southern end, but spots have all but replaced them elsewhere.

The late, nationally known bass fishing guru, Doug Hannon, rated the lakes and ponds within Central Florida’s Ocala National Forest as his favorite destination for humongous Florida bass. He also considered it the likely home of a new world record that will beat the current mark of 22 pounds, 4 ounces.

The ponds and lakes range in size from a few acres to several hundred acres. Of the 40 or so lakes that are fishable here in the southernmost national forest in the country, about half have boat ramps, though some of these are suitable only for kayaks or small johnboats transported in with 4-wheel-drive vehicles.

The effort is usually worth it, however, especially if you’re the type of angler who likes peace and quiet while you’re fishing. Typically, the lakes and ponds are shallow, tannin-stained and support a variety of aquatic vegetation. Take along plenty of weedless soft-plastic baits such as frogs and worms, and be advised: This is no place for light lines and light tackle.

The Forest is flanked by Daytona Beach on the east, Ocala on the west and Gainesville to the northwest, so finding all the comforts an urban area provides isn’t difficult. Also, there are a number of campgrounds in the Forest that take reservations (877-444-6777) and fees range from $4 to $20, depending on services and locale. A few cabins are also available for rent or you can rough it, as primitive camping is allowed in designated areas except in gun hunting season.

Everything’s bigger in Texas, though 18,700-acre Lake O’ the Pines is not huge compared to such giants as Sam Rayburn and Toledo Bend.  Similar to a north Florida lake, Lake O’ the Pines has an average depth of about 13 feet, with stained waters and a reputation for quality fishing in early season. Though Lake Fork is the undisputed leader when it comes to producing big Texas largemouths, Lake O’ the Pines isn’t too shabby either, as the lake record is just over 15 pounds. It was caught in late March 2010 on a Rat-L-Trap.

If you want big lakes and the company of lots of other bass fishermen, target famous Arizona fishing holes such as Apache Lake, Navajo Lake or Havasu. If you want to enjoy a getaway far from the madding crowd, though, Black River is the place.

The West and East Forks of the river start in the alpine setting of the White Mountains of northern Arizona and downriver from where they meet offers some of the best smallmouth fishing in high desert country.

The lower part of the Black produces numbers of 2- to 3-pound smallmouths and the occasional larger fish. Spinning tackle rigged with inline spinners, small jerkbaits, jigs and the usual mix of smallmouth baits work well, though fly-fishing gear and crawfish patterns, Dahlberg Divers or Wooly Buggers arguably see more fishing time here.

Plan to fish out of canoes or kayaks but be forewarned: the upper Black River has a few stretches of rapids and shoals and isn’t a waterway for beginning paddlers. The terrain gradually flattens farther downstream and the Black broadens to take on more of the characteristics of a lowland river.

As the Black River is the boundary between the San Carlos Apache Reservation and the White Mountain Apache Tribe Reservation, fishing access permits are required, depending on which side you fish or put in on. On the San Carlos side, a daily permit costs $10 while on the White Mountain side, it’s $9. Annual permits are available too, as are camping permits. There are a number of other fishing permits available that cover other lakes and rivers on the reservations.

Access points are numerous, but usually involve unpaved roads. Still, it’s the remoteness that makes the Black River a fishing destination in a league of its own.

Who goes to Big Sky Country to fish for bass? Hardly anyone, but maybe they should. The waters of this 7,700-acre impoundment on the Clark Fork River near Trout Creek in the northwestern corner of Montana are teeming with largemouth and smallmouth bass.

Noxon Reservoir hosts a few tournaments in the summer months, but except for the random weekend angler from Kalispell or Missoula, it practically goes unnoticed. The fishing here is first-rate, however, as are the knockout views of surrounding mountains.

The lake is sandwiched between the Kaniksu National Forest on the north and the Coeur d’Alene National Forest to the south. Chances are you’ll spot deer, bighorn sheep and elk watering while you’re fishing down the bank. Start your

It might seem odd to pick an entire region over just one lake, but there are so many good, underutilized fisheries in northern California that the entire region deserves mention. For instance, 30,000-acre Lake Shasta is a great spotted bass fishery and Whiskeytown Lake (3,458 acres), near Redding, produces lots of trophy spots as well as largemouths and smallmouths.

For a number of years, Trinity Lake, northwest of Redding, was known for producing the state-record smallmouth bass of 9 pounds, 1 ounce. In 2017, 4,700-acre New Bullards Bar Reservoir in North Central California, near Yuba City, yielded the world record spotted bass of 11 pounds, 4 ounces – and plenty more in the same weight class. A Google search will provide the names and website addresses of plenty of guides at any of the lakes.

Maybe you’re already planning a cross-country road trip this summer, with stops outside national or state parks. Ask park rangers for the best public- access trails in the area. Perhaps you’re hitting some ski resorts in the summer season, many ski resorts offer ticketed lift-served single track as a source of income during the off-season. Getting a ride up the mountain can be a fun treat.

If you’re camping while taking in some of North America’s iconic landmarks, find a local bike shop and ask for an area route map. No matter what type of outdoor vacation you’re embarking on, you can add mountain biking to the mix. 

If you’re not familiar with this term, a “rail trail” is an unused railroad track that’s been removed and converted to a dirt or paved bike trail. These trails are ideal for family riding, because the grade is naturally level, they’re free to use, and, of course, there’s an absence of any car traffic. 

The Mickelson Trail connecting the small 'Wild West'-style towns found in the Black Hills of South Dakota is one of our favorites. Additional rail trails can be found everywhere from the Pacific Northwest to Maine. Most have bike shops ready to rent you gear at one end or both (more on renting gear below).

Single-track mountain biking trail networks are most often found on National Forest Service land. Like rail trails, they are free to use. The best way to find them is by inquiring at a local bike shop, at which there are almost always maps. You can also find trail networks on the vast lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management.

Most trail networks include both hiking trails and mountain biking trails, so be sure to follow signage indicating which are bike-friendly. Expect up and downhill grades. The best will indicate trail level on the map or on signage, usually rating trails by difficulty (advanced trails will include a lot of uphill, downhill and curves, for instance). As always, stay on designated trails. Tread Lightly has a great list of tips for responsible mountain biking. 

Our favorite trail network lies just outside of Sisters, Oregon, in the high desert, but excellent systems can be found outside of Moab, Utah and Breckenridge, Colorado. 

Bike parks are slightly different, in that they offer an enclosed space of mountain bike trail elements designed for training and teaching purposes. Kids can often find lessons here, or simply get used to trail elements such as rails, boardwalks, and boulders before embarking on the single- track trail systems. 

Most include “pump tracks,” which are short loop trails designed for very young children to navigate. The Frisco Bike Park in Frisco, Colorado is one of the best, where novices can try their skills next to pros. Bike parks, unlike trail networks and rail trails, often do come with an admission cost.

This option is my teenagers’ favorite. Many ski resorts have adapted downhill runs into a network of single- track downhill “gravity-based" trails, which are accessed by ski lift (lifts are adapted as well, to haul bikes up the mountain).

For the price of a summer mountain biking lift ticket (usually still much less than a winter ski ticket, though prices have been going up), riders can ride up the lifts and bike down runs that vary from beginner to advanced.

Sometimes, “cat-track-style” dirt roads are also accessible from the top, providing longer, more mellow riding to the bottom. 

Our favorite ski resorts for gravity-based mountain biking include Park City Mountain Resort in Utah and Northstar Resort in Northern California. 

I recommend renting quality mountain bikes (or cruiser-style bikes for rail trails) before buying. You’ll save yourself the hassle of transporting your bikes on your vacations, and you’ll be more certain of having the correct bike for the terrain you’re tackling.

Take it from me: we once tried to bring a quality hybrid mountain bike onto a challenging, rocky single track at a gravity-based bike system on Mt. Hood, Oregon. That bike looked more like a pretzel after just one run. (Luckily, the rider was unscathed.)

Bike rentals on-site at ski resorts and in bike shops adjacent to popular bike trail systems will have the shock absorbers, lightweight frames, and tires you need on tough terrain.

However, in addition to the gear you would normally pack, you should come with your own helmet and other protective gear, to ensure the proper fit. We’ve often found ourselves at bike rental shops, only to realize they lacked the correct sizing for our kids’ protective gear. Add knee and elbow pads for go-getters, and remember to bring closed-toed shoes (no sandals).

Enjoy the trails while traveling!

Redesigned for 2018, REI’s iconic Half Dome 2 tent now has more floorspace not only for campers, but all of their gear, too. The gear retailer also updated the poles that it uses with this tent, allowing the walls to stand more vertically. The result is a more open design that increases ventilation and headroom. 

Interior pockets help to keep important items – such as a headlamp or smartphone – close at hand, while two doors and two vestibules add to the overall convenience. Best of all, the Half Dome maintains its high level of quality and durability, ensuring that it will be a camp shelter you can use for many years to come. 

Therm-a-Rest’s new Space Cowboy sleeping bag is specifically designed for camping in warmer weather. The bag carries a temperature rating of 45ºF, which makes it perfect for cool spring and summer evenings. And since it weighs just a shade over one pound, it doesn’t add a lot of bulk to your back either. 

Need a bit of extra warmth? The Space Cowboy comes with built-in blanket and quilt loops so you can add one of Therm-a-Rest’s camp quilts when the mercury starts to drop. 

For 2018, Therm-a-Rest took its popular NeoAir Camper SV sleeping pad and added its SpeedValve to make it faster and easier to inflate than ever before. The aptly-named SpeedValve inflates three times faster than a traditional sleeping pad valve with a minimal of effort. The pad will keep you comfortable and warm even when sleeping on rough terrain, and packs down surprisingly small for easy transport and storage. It also integrates nicely with the Space Cowboy sleeping bag for a complete sleep system.

Over the past few years hammock camping has really taking off, giving those who like to sleep outside an alternative to curling up on the sometimes-damp and unforgiving ground. Kammok has been at the forefront of this movement for quite a while now and the company’s Roo Double is a great option for those who want to give it a try as well. 

The Roo Double can comfortably hold two people (up to 500 pounds of weight), although it only weighs 23 ounces. It is also water resistant, durable, and comes with a gear pocket to keep important items within easy reach. Pair it with a the Dragonfly insect net ($79) and the Kuhli rainfly for a complete sleep system.

Getting plenty of light at the campsite has never been easier thanks to the new Crush Light solar lantern from Goal Zero. Weighing just 3.2 ounces, this lantern offers up to 60 lumens of light and as much as 35 hours or runtime from its rechargeable battery. A built-in solar panel helps keep the lantern running throughout your entire trip, while a handy detachable handle makes it easy to hang the light inside a tent or from a nearby tree branch. The Crush Light even collapses down flat for easy transport, making it a convenient option for use when camping in the backyard or the backcountry. 

Just because you’re camping outdoors doesn’t mean you have to settle for mediocre food. On the contrary, modern camp stoves are light, powerful, and versatile, allowing backcountry chefs to create some truly tasty meals. 

The new WindBurner Stove System Combo from MSR includes an efficient stove and two cooking pots, all of which weighs less than two pounds and conveniently nests inside one another for easy storage. This stove heats up very quickly and both pots are designed to sit neatly on top of the burner, even when resting on rough terrain, making this a great cooking system for use just about anywhere. 

Want to take your favorite beverage with you to the campsite? The new Trooper LT 30 soft cooler from Otterbox makes it easier than ever to do just that and keep your drinks cold in the process. The cooler features 30 liters of storage, a wide-mouthed opening for easy access to its interior, and a waterproof pocket for stashing fragile gadgets. 

The Trooper 30 converts from a shoulder bag to a backpack in a matter of seconds and can keep ice frozen for more than three days. It even comes with a bottle opener accessory at lash points for connecting other gear like the Otterbox Drybox.

Finding and transporting fresh, clean drinking water in the backcountry can be a challenge at times, but HydraPak has come up with a solution that makes things much easier. The Trek Kit 3L includes the company’s three-liter Seeker bottle ($22), a silicone drink tube, an easy-open lid, and a dispensing valve, that makes it easy to not only collect water, but carry it to the campsite as well. 

The system is also compatible with Katadyne filtration systems, which automatically remove harmful items from the water, making it safe to drink. The bottle can hold both hot and cold beverages, is dishwasher safe, and is made from 100% BPA and PVC free materials. 

For spring 2018, KEEN has updated one of its most popular hiking boots by releasing the new Targee III WP. The boot now features a durable leather upper that is both waterproof and breathable, keeping the foot comfortable and dry in a variety of conditions. 

The Targee III also comes with KEEN's All-Terrain rubber sole for added traction and a specially designed footbed that offers good arch support while still managing to protect and cradle the foot at the same time. Despite these substantial upgrades, the boot still features the fit and performance that we’ve come to expect from the Targee line, making it a great option for light hiking or just hanging out at the campsite. 

We all know that even in the spring and summer, the weather can be unpredictable and rain showers can make any camping trip a challenge. Outdoor Research’s new Interstellar Jacket can help, though, offering one of the lightest, most breathable hard-shells on the market at the moment. 

The jacket weighs just 11.6 ounces, but somehow manages to offer the same level of performance as much bulkier storm shells. It comes with a helmet-compatible hood, pockets that are strategically placed for access even while wearing a pack, and an athletic fit that doesn’t inhibit motion while on the trail. 

You’d probably think I was blowing smoke, but I’m talking about one of the most neglected and productive hunts in the U.S.—for common tree squirrels.

Squirrel seasons start now, in the lazy days of late summer, giving you time (and an excuse) to get out in the woods to scout for deer while also ground-truthing the gear that you’ll rely on all autumn.

But you don’t need an excuse to go squirrel hunting. The first argument in its favor is that squirrels live almost everywhere, from the leafy hardwoods of the East to the piney woods of the South to the mountains of the West. Squirrel hunting is also a great way to introduce new shooters to small-game hunting. 

The two squirrel species most often pursued by hunters are the largest and most widely distributed: the fox (or red) squirrel, and the gray squirrel.

While peripheral habitats can hold squirrels, you’ll have the best luck finding summertime squirrels in their core habitats of nut-producing hardwoods, especially oak and hickory stands. But here’s the other appeal: hardwoods define a lot of public land east of the Mississippi, from small tracts of county land to larger state game lands and wildlife management areas, to big U.S. Forest Service tracts.

Find hardwoods, and you’ll almost certainly find squirrels. But don’t neglect private land, either. Your chances of getting permission to hunt a patch of farm-country hardwoods for squirrels is orders of magnitude better than getting on that same land for deer.

Now that you know where to find them, how do you hunt squirrels? You’ll change tactics once the leaves drop, but for summertime squirrels, when the critters can be hidden in the dense green foliage, the best approach is to first walk and then sit and listen for rustling high in the branches.

Patience is a virtue with this style of hunting, because not only must you positively identify that the movement is being made by a squirrel, but you must wait for a clean shot.

Try sitting near the top of a steep hillside that drops into a ravine or creek drainage. Your elevation will provide you with a better view of the upper limbs of trees that hold squirrels, and you can look over several acres of trees on the slopes below you.

Another benefit to hilltop stands, especially for rifle hunters, is that your shots will be traveling safely downward, often with a tree trunk or limb behind the squirrel to stop your bullet.

A small binocular—either an 8x24 or 8x32—is useful for this sort of surveillance. Scan areas where you hear or see leaves moving, then be ready to follow up positive identification with a rifle shot. 

The perfect set-up for this type of hunting is a .22 rimfire topped with a 4-power scope. Your shots won’t be much over 50 yards, but the scope enables you pinpoint aim, an important advantage when you often see only pieces and parts of leaf-hidden squirrels. Your goal should be head shots.

If you’re a morning hunter, get in the woods early and sit against the base of a large tree with a wide vantage of the woods around you. Squirrels are often active on the forest floor in the mornings, and you can have good shooting as long as you can move quietly from place to place. Once you’ve shot a couple times, squirrels will get nervous and remain in the sanctuary of the treetops.

This is also a good time to try calling. If you know squirrels are hanging out of sight in the treetops, blow or push a chatter call. You’ll need to experiment with the rhythm and volume (as well as various brands), but the idea is to mimic the sound of an agitated squirrel, causing the real chatterboxes to show themselves, often with their tails puffed out, standing on an exposed limb.

A call is a great device to use with a buddy. Your friend calls, you get ready to shoot. After you’ve bagged a tree rat, switch jobs and call another one.

HOW TO SKIN A SQUIRREL

Photograph by Andrew McKean

Use a knife with a stout blade but sharp drop point for squirrel-skinning chores.

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Especially if you’re hunting in the heat of summer, you’re going to want to field dress and cool squirrels pretty quickly after you add them to your game bag. Here’s a quick way to get rid of heat-trapping hide and cool down the thighs and shoulders of a red or gray squirrel.

The bonus: you don’t have to field dress, or remove the guts, from inside the squirrel, so this is a relatively bloodless and clean way to produce pieces of meat that, after they’re washed, are ready for the frying pan or stew pot.

1. Make incisions around both hind legs, then slit up the inside of each leg to the anus, there your slits should join.
2. Stand on the squirrel’s tail and pull the skin upward from the leg incisions. If the squirrel is still cool, the skin should come off fairly easily; if it’s cold, you may have to encourage the skin by making short cuts as you pull.
3. The skin should come off as an inverted tube. Keep pulling until the shoulders and upper legs are skinless.
4. Then cut the shoulder bones at the first joint and the neck just below the head. You’ll now have a skinless carcass with the tail attached.
5. Remove the tail by cutting it at the first joint behind the rump.
6. Spread the thighs until the hip bones pop out of their joints. Then cut behind each thigh, detaching the hip ball from the socket, and cut through to remove both thighs.
7. Cut from the neck back along each side of the backbone, and then down and around each shoulder to remove each front quarter.
8. Put each skinless quarter inside a breathable bag (don’t use plastic, because it will trap bacteria-causing heat), and keep hunting, knowing that you’re gaining tasty, healthy meat with each “chicken-of-the-tree” you add to your bag.

Visibility in hardwoods improves greatly once fall arrives and trees drop their leaves. Squirrel hunting can be red-hot for the first few weeks of the bare-branch season.

This is the nut-gathering season for squirrels, and they’re working overtime to store acorns, hickory nuts, and chestnuts for winter consumption, so they’re often visible and vulnerable.

If summer was .22 season, the fall is a better time for a shotgun. Walk the woods and look for snap shots on the forest floor as squirrels run from tree to tree and scamper up trunks. But if you prefer a rifle, then sit on a hillside, wait for the forest to settle down from your intrusion, and then take longer shots at squirrels pausing from their nut-gathering mission.

This can also be a wait-and-listen game, only at this time of year, you’re listening for the loud rustle of squirrels moving through dried leaves. You’d be amazed how often a 2-pound squirrel can sound like a 200-pound whitetail buck moving through the woods.

The most effective all-around squirrel gun is a scoped .22. You want a rifle that can repeatedly stack shots inside a 2-inch bullseye at 50 yards. Good options include the durable Ruger 10/22, Browning’s T-Bolt, or Marlin’s Model 60 or 795. 

An accurate .22 pistol, such as Browning’s Buck Mark, topped with a red-dot sight is another great squirrel rig. If you want to opt for a little more range, consider a .17 rimfire; the light, fast Savage A17 in .17 HMR is a good choice. 

A suppressor is a smart addition, because its blast-taming muzzle keeps you from announcing yourself to squirrels with every shot you take.

For shotguns, there’s no need to go heavier than a 20 gauge, and a 28 gauge or even .410 is a better choice. In fact, the introduction earlier this year of Federal’s Heavyweight TSS (Tungsten Super Shot) is a wonderful squirrel load. Designed for turkeys, the size 9 shot delivers great penetration and range and is a good choice for a walk-about squirrel hunter who doesn’t want to lug around a heavy shotgun.

A vest with a bloodproof game bag, a good knife, some snacks, water and a binocular round out your gear needs.

Here’s one more: a good shooting stick to settle your gun for longer shots. Look for a telescoping monopod or tripod with a head that fits the forend of your rifle, and then use it on different pitches of slope or any time you can’t find a tree trunk or other support to stabilize your gun.